Thursday, October 26, 2017

18" Doll Dresses ** free crochet pattern

My granddaughter (I call her Noo Noo) loves her dolls. She is always very careful with her dolls and treats them like they are alive.
 I never think of doll clothes so as Hurricane Irma approached us in September I decided to whip up a few dresses for my Noo Noo so she could play and forget about the storm.

This dress is a very simple design, you could embellish however you like to make different dresses.


Materials

I hook

F hook

Ww yarn of your choice - I used Red Heart Super Saver in Fruity Stripe & Favorite Stripe

Button 1/2"



Guage 4sts per inch

Abbreviations


Ch- chain

Sk- skip

Sl st- slip stitch

Hdc- half double crochet

3dcbobble- *yo hook, insert hook into st pull up a loop, pull loop through two loops on hook *repeat 2x, yo draw through all loops on hook

Flo- front loop only

Blo- back loop only

Mirror- mirror crochet How to mirror crochet


Notes


All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2017.



You may do whatever you like with your completed 18" Doll dresses, you can play dress up with your dolls, donate them, sell them, fundraise with them or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my 18" Doll dresses :)


Ch 41

1- beginning in 2nd ch from hook, hdc 40 (40) ch3 sl st to beg ch, turn to work along opposite side of foundation ch, ch1 this ch3 is your button "loop" for fastening dress

2- *hdc, 2hdc*  (60) ch1 turn

3- mirror:  hdc2, 2hdc (80) ch1 turn

4- hdc10, sk20 sts, hdc20, sk20 sts, hdc10 (40) do not ch1 or turn, sl st to 1st st of row 4, ch1. Begin rounds

5- hdc, 2hdc (60)

6-9 - hdc (60) join, ch1 if you don't want to add the pom pom edging you do not need to work in BLO.

10- blo: hdc5, 2hdc (70) join, ch1

11-12 - hdc (70) join, ch1

13- blo: hdc (70) join, ch1

14-15 - hdc (70) join, ch1

16- blo: hdc6, 2hdc (80) join, ch1

17-18 - hdc (80) join, ch1

19- blo: hdc7, 2hdc (90) join, ch1

20-21 - hdc (90) join, ch1 do not ch1 at end rnd 1, f.o. weave in ends


Pom Pom Edging with f hook

Join in unworked flo of rnd 10

1- *ch6, 3dcbobble in 3rd ch from hook, ch3 make 3dc bobble in 1st bobble st, join with a sl st  in same st 1st bobble worked in, ch3, sk 3 st, sl st in next* join to beginning  f.o. repeat in this manner for other rnds with unworked Flo. You may need to sk/reduce by an extra st or 2...I honestly forgot if I needed to


Finishing

Attach button to opposite side from button loop. Continue to embellish dress or leave as is.  Weave in ends.  And don't forget to have fun!







Tuesday, October 10, 2017

NICU Adorable Octopi **free crochet pattern

I was a nurse, until an injury and lupus took me out of the game, but my heart still yearns to care for and love strangers.

When I got the call that a friend of a friend had a baby born at 31wks gestation my heart was aching for the parents I've never met.  That same evening a Facebook message appears asking if I could make an octopus to keep this sweet little baby's hands from playing with wires..YES!!!! I can help with that!

These Adorable Octopi are what I created. I would love to see any you make! Add as a project on ravelry.com or post on Mommy Made Crochet on Facebook.



These faces are all felted

Blue Octopus with Sailor Hat has a few quick embroidery sets for face



Materials


Caron simply soft cobalt blue, white, strawberry or any color you like!

Optional- cotton ww yarn instead of soft acrylic yarn

F hook

Fiberfill

Tapestry needle

Embroidery floss, or scraps of yarn for face (you can also needle felt the face if you have the tools)

Safety eyes- I do NOT recommend if octopus is going to any small children



Abbreviations


Mr-magic ring

Ch- chain

Sl st- slip stitch

Sc- single crochet

Sc2tog- single crochet 2 stitches together; decrease

Hdc- half double crochet

Flo- front loop only

Blo- back loop only


Notes


All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2017.



You may do whatever you like with your completed NICU Adorable Octopi, you can pretend you are undersea, donate them, sell them, fundraise with them or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my NICU Adorable Octopi :)





Begin


1- mr6 (6)

2- 2sc (12)

3- sc, 2sc (18)

4- sc2, 2sc (24)

5- sc3, 2sc (30)

6-12 -sc (30)

13- sc3, sc2tog (24)

14- sc (24)

15- sc2, sc2tog (18)

16- sc (18)

17- sc7, sc2tog (16) legs can be lengthened or shorted by adding or removing ch sts in next rnd

18-  flo- *sl st,  ch25, beginning in 2nd ch from hook 2hdc in each ch, sl st to next flo* create 8 legs. Stuff head lightly

19- working in unworked blo - sc2tog (8) f.o. use end to close opening



Sailor Hat


1- mr6 (6)

2- sc 2sc (9)

3-4-  sc (9)

5- Flo- sc, 2sc (12)

6- sc (12) f.o. you can use a sl st to end or invisible join. Leave a  length of yarn for attaching to head


Bow with white


1- ch3 4, starting in 2nd ch - hdc, sl st, hdc f.o. wrap center of for with yarn 2x, sew to head


Finishing

Embroidery or felt the face of your Adorable Octopi. Your imagination can lead you to create the face you want! If you can see it in your mind you can make it happen ;-)






Saturday, October 7, 2017

Jack Skellington Lovey **free crochet pattern

Such a cute little guy ♡

It's the most wonderful time of the year... Fall. So of course I had to do at least one thing from Tim Burton lol
This is my attempt to make a Jack's Skellington Lovey and I hope you all enjoy it!

Sorry pic is odd...hurricane Irma kinda tore apart my garden




Materials

F hook
J hook
Ww yarn - black & white
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Poly fill


Abbreviations

Mr- magic ring
Ch- ch
Sl st- slip stitch
Sc- single crochet
Sc2tog- single crochet 2 stitches together; decrease
Hdc- half double crochet
Dc- double crochet


F hook
Ww yarn - black & white
Sport wt  yarn in white or embroidery floss or split ply of ww white
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Poly fill





Notes

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2017.




You may do whatever you like with your completed Jack Skellington Lovey, you can cuddle them, donate them, or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my Jack Skellington Lovey :)






Head

1- mr6 (6)

2 - 2sc (12)

3- sc, 2sc (18)

4- sc2, 2sc (24)

5- sc3, 2sc (30)

6- sc4, 2sc (36)

7- sc5, 2sc (42)

8-16 - sc (42)

17- sc5, sc2tog (36)

18- sc4, sc2tog (30)

19- sc3, sc2tog (24)

20- sc2tog (12)

21- sc2tog  (6)



Arms stuff to desired firmness

With white

1- mr6 (6)

2- 2sc (12)

3-6 -sc (12) change to black in last st, work 1rnd uncounted sl st

7-12 - sc  (12)

13- sc2tog, sc10 (11)

14- sc (11)

15- sc2tog, sc9 (10)

16- sc (10)

17- sc2tog, sc8 (9)

18-20 - sc (9) f.o.


Bat tie


Ch24

1- starting in 3rd ch from hook, dc4, hdc2, sc2, sl st 6, sc2, hdc2, dc4 ch2 turn

2- dc4, hdc2, sc2, sl st 6, sc2, hdc2, dc4 ch1 turn

3- sl st to end of row, turn to work along side, ch3 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, sl st to base of dc, ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, sl st to top of Dc in 1st row, ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next  sl st to base of foundation ch. Sl st across foundation ch to opposite end:  ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st to top of rnd 1 dc, ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, sl st to base of Dc from row2, ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, sl st to top of row 2 Dc join to beg F.o. weave in ends



Bat head

1- mr6 (6)

2- 2sc x2, sc/hdc dc ch2 dc, 2sc x2 (12)

3- ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st2, ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st to head f.o. leave a tail to attach to bat tie wings.


Jack's Eyes with black x2

1- mr6 (6)

2- 2sc (12) join f.o. leave long end



Body j hook


1- Mr hdc10 (10) join ch1

2- 2hdc (20)

3- hdc3, hdc ch3 hdc in next st x5 (25)

4- hdc4, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc5, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

5- hdc6, hdc ch3, hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc7, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

6- hdc8, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc9, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

7- hdc10, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc11, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

8- hdc12, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc13, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

9- hdc 14, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, * hdc15, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

10- hdc16, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc17, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

11- hdc18, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, * hdc19, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

12- hdc20, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc21, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

13- hdc22, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc23, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

14- hdc24, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc25, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

15- hdc26, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc27, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4

16- hdc28, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp, *hdc29, hdc ch3 hdc in ch3 sp* x4 f.o. weave in ends



Finishing

Attach eyes to head and create facial features. Attach head to "body". Attach arms close to head...closer together than you may assume so don't finish off arms until you're sure you like their placement!

Bat tie- use the sport wt yarn to create bones in wings. I use a bit of ww for eyes on head. Attach head to wings and then to body under Jack's head.







Thursday, September 7, 2017

*Hurricane Irma*

Friends,

We are going to be experiencing hurricane force winds in a couple days.

I live in a small inland town in southwest Florida. We had Hurricane Charley in 2004 and lost everything but our lives. We hope this won't occur  this time.

We will do all we can to remain safe during the storm. We have some water and I plan to cook up all our frozen food as our family will all be together for the storm and I'm sure they will get hungry (we have a large family)

I will be back to bring more patterns as soon as life is returned to normal. In fact I may do some designing during the storm.

Thank you all for understanding ♡ I will post updates as I can


Anna

Monday, July 24, 2017

Pacific Waves Convertible Hat/neck gaiter **free crochet pattern



I love visiting my mom on the Oregon Coast, I find so much inspiration here that I wanted to share some with you!

I grew up on the west coast and I miss it so much when I'm home that I try to create patterns to remind me of my happy place 😉

Because we are rural, I ordered some yarn from Joann's - Sweet Roll in Frosty Swirl find it HERE.  The color reminds me of the waves ♡

The Pacific Waves Convertible Hat is more than what it seems at first glance...
a hat, a bun/ponytail hat, or a neck gaiter!





Materials

H hook

Worsted weight yarn

Scissors

Needle to weave in ends

Beads (optional)




Abbreviations: 

Mr: magic ring

Ch: chain

Sl st: slip stitch 

Sk: skip

Fpdc: crochet a DC around the front post of st

Bpdc: crochet a DC around the back post of a st

Sc chain less foundation: Foundation single crochet <great tutorial

Sc: single crochet 

Hdc: half double crochet

Dc: double crochet 

Tr: treble crochet

F.o. : fasten off



Notes

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2017.




You may do whatever you like with your completed Pacific Waves Convertible hat, you can pull your ponytail through, donate them, sell them, fundraise with them or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my Pacific Waves Convertible Hat :)



Directions


Sc chain less foundation 70 join

1- fpdc, bpdc (70) join ch1

2-  sc, *hdc2, dc2, tr3, dc2, hdc2, sc 3* end w/ sc2 (70) join ch1

3-  SC  (70) join ch2

4- tr *dc2, hdc2, sc3, hdc2, dc2, tr3* end w/ tr2 (70) join ch1

5- sc  (70) join ch1

6-22 - Rpt 2-5 x4

* if you do not think this is long enough repeat 2-5 until you are happy with length

23- sc, *hdc2, dc2, tr3, dc2, hdc2, sc3* end w/ sc2 (70) join ch1

24- sc (70) join ch1

25- *hdc, ch1 sk 1 st* join and weave in ends



Tie

Ch 100

Weave through ch spaces of last hat rnd. Add beads or pom poms or whatever you feel like!

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Thom the Devil Dog - English bulldog * free crochet pattern

Both of my parents are USMC vets. For this Father's Day I really wanted to make a Devil Dog for my dad. (Don't say anything but mom is getting a late Mother's day Devil Dog too!)

I was raised to respect and honor those who have served our country and those who gave everything for it.

I looked all over for an English bulldog pattern I liked but I never found exactly what I was looking for. I decided to get to work designing my own. I hope you enjoy making your own Devil Dogs! (Or just bulldogs)

I dedicate this pattern to all who have served our country and I hope to follow with more patterns like this.







Materials:

F hook

Size 4 yarn: I used Red Heart Super Saver in buff & warm brown

Small amt of black yarn for details & nose

Small amt of brown yarn for hat

Small amt

12mm safety eyes

Scissors

Fiberfill

Tapestry needle for attaching and weaving in ends


Abbreviations: 

Mr: magic ring

Ch: chain

Sl st: slip stitch 

Sk: skip

Sc: single crochet 

Sc2tog: decrease by 1 sc

Hdc: half double crochet

Hdc3tog: decrease by 2 hdc

Dc: double crochet 

Flo: sts created in front loop only

Mirror crochet: mirror crochet follow link for video tutorial by Sad Days Crochet (optional)


F.o. : fasten off



Notes

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2017.




You may do whatever you like with your completed Devil Dog, you can brave the dark together, donate them, sell them, fundraise with them or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my Devil Dog :)



Begin

Head: with main color

1: Mr 6 (6) join, ch1 on every round of head

2: 2sc (12)

3: sc, 2sc (18)

4: sc2, 2sc (24)

5: sc3, 2sc (30)

6-8: sc (30)

9: sc12, FLO- 2sc x6, both loops- sc12 (36)

10: sc12, *2sc, sc2 * x4, sc12 (40) place safety eyes between rnds 6/7 6 sts apart over muzzle

11-14: sc (40) 

15: sc12, *sc2tog, sc2 * x4, sc12 (36)

16: sc12, sc2tog x6, sc12 (30)

17: sc, sc2tog (20) *stuff the head 

18: *sc, sc2tog * sc in last 2 sts (14)

19: sc2tog (7) f.o. leaving a long tail for closing opening and shaping the muzzle


Nose: with black

Ch6, begin 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc f.o. leaving a long tail for attaching to muzzle


Muzzle: with main color

1: Mr 6 (6) work in continuous rnds, do not join

2: sc, 2sc (9)

3: sc2, 2sc (12)

4: sc3, 2sc (15)

5-6: sc (15)

7: sc3, sc2tog (12)

8-21: sc (12)

22: sc3, 2sc (15)

23-24: sc (15)

25: sc3, sc2tog (12)

26: sc2, sc2tog (9)

27: sc, sc2tog (6) f.o. leave a long tail to close opening and attach to head


Body: with main color

1: Mr 6 (6) work in continuous rnds

2/3: 2sc (12/24)

4: sc, 2sc (36)

5: sc2, 2sc (48)

6: sc11, 2sc (52)

7-12: sc (52)

13: sc2tog, sc11 (48)

14: *sc2, sc2tog * x6, sc24 (42)

15-17: sc (42)

18: *sc1, sc2tog * x6, sc24 (36)

19-20: sc (36)

21: sc4, sc2tog (30)

22: sc (30)

23: sc3, sc2tog (24)

24-29: sc (24)

30: sc2, sc2tog (18)

31: sc, sc2tog (12)

32: sc2tog (6) f.o. weave in ends



Front legs: with main color


1: Mr  (6) join and ch1 at end of every rnd

2: 2sc (12)

3: sc, 2sc (18)

4-6: sc (18)

7: sc4, sc2tog (15)

8: hdc 7, sc2tog x4 (11)

9: *2hdc, hdc * x3, 2hdc, sc4 (15)

10: hdc, hdc2tog x2, hdc, hdc2tog x2, hdc, 2sc x4 (15)

11-14: sc (15)

15: begin rows-  sc 10 (10) ch1 turn

16: mirror: sk 1st st, sc7, sk1 st, sc (8) ch1 turn

17: sc (8) ch1 turn

18: mirror- sk 1 st, sc5, sk 1 st (6) ch1 turn

19: sc (6) ch1 turn

20: mirror- sc (6)

21: sk 1st st, sc4, 2sc, turn to work down side of rows : sc down sides of rows and in skipped sts of rnd 14. Join to beginning leaving a long tail for attaching to body.

*Front legs are turned inward towards body


Back legs: with body color

1-13: same as front leg

14: do not ch1 1- sc (18) do not join

15: sc to center front of leg for left leg and center back for right leg turn ch1

16: mirror- sc7 (7) turn ch1

17: 2sc, sc5, 2sc (9) turn ch1

18: mirror- sc (9) turn ch1

19: sk 1 st, sc6, sk 1 st sc (7) turn ch1

20: mirror- sk 1 st, sc4, sk 1 st, sc (5) turn ch1 

21: sk 1 st, sc2, sk 1 st, sc (3) do not turn

22: sc around leg opening in same manner as front legs. Join f.o. leaving a long tail for attaching to body.

* back legs face forward


Ears: with body color x2

Ch6 leave a long beginning tail for attaching to head

1:  hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc 4 (5) ch1 turn

2: mirror: hdc (5) ch1 turn

3: Sk 1 st, hdc2, sk 1 st hdc (3) ch1 turn

4: mirror: hdc3tog ch1 turn, sc around ear, at bottom corners sc, ch1, sc . Join to 1st st, f.o. weave in this end



Tail: with main color

1: mr 6 (6)

2: 2sc, sc (9) f.o. leave a long tail for attaching to body


Eyebrows: with main color x2

Ch 5 leaving a long end tail and 6" beginning tail



Finishing Bulldog:

Attach muzzle to face as shown, attach nose to top of muzzle. Use a small amt of white yarn to stitch teeth if desired. Do not weave in muzzle tail yet.

Pin eyebrows in desired location, depending on placement and shape you can change the expression very easily. After you have in desired place stitch eyebrow to head in a whipstitch manner, sewing over the chain to give dimension.

Use use tail from muzzle to shape forehead as desired. Play around until you get the result you want. When satisfied with head weave in all ends.

Attach ears to top of head as in pictures. Weave in ends.

Pin head to body minding the shape of the body for placement. Once satisfied with placement sew to body and weave in ends

Stuff feet a little firmly, be sure not to stuff ankles hard. Use some black yarn to create toes. By pulling the yarn tight and fastening that way you can create definition for toes. Stuff legs a little firmly so they can support his body weight.

Pin legs to body in desired position before sewing in place, be sure your dog can stand well.  Place tail at end of body on top of rump, use a small amt of stuffing and sew in place.




Campaign Hat (drill hat) with brown

1: Mr 6 (6) join ch1 at end of every rnd

2: 2sc (12)

3: sc, 2sc (18)

4: sc2, 2sc (24)

5-10: sc (24)

11: FLO- sc3, 2sc (30)

12: 2hdc, hdc4 (36)

13: sc5, 2sc (42) join. Weave in ends

Optional: crochet a short chain and attach to hat as chin strap



Monday, May 1, 2017

Lupus Wolf- a design with a purpose *free crochet pattern



Q: Why is your wolf purple?
A: I'm glad you asked! This is gonna take a bit of explaining...
I've been battling chronic migraines (4+ a week), hypothyroidism (Hashimoto's thyroiditis- autoimmune), fatigue and chronic pain for many years.
Over the past 8 years I noticed more than normal pain, exhaustion that is so severe it feels impossible to get out of bed, a red scaly rash on my cheeks, sudden onset arthritic symptoms/hypertension and more. Then the worsening would slack off and I was back to status quo.
I was a nurse before I was injured and I knew what it likely was, but come on, "it's never lupus". (House MD)
House was wrong and I was right. Sadly, I've been diagnosed with lupus.
I refreshed my knowledge of lupus and I've been trying to get this flare up to go back down since February.

My journey to diagnosis:

In November 2008 my neck was injured. I had some pretty bad pain that wouldn't go away and by July 2009 the pain was severe and debilitating add in chronic migraines and heat/sunlight intolerance...I thought I must have been dying. It has to be a disease it can't be injury, can it?  I may have been right.
I have battled chronic pain and migraines since that injury and migraine free days are like a treasure that I've been looking for, even if just a moment.
Fast forward:
I decided to start walking around a small lake near me and my best friend was amazing to encourage me and even walk with me ♡
The morning after I took our first afternoon walk I had trouble waking up. I was completely wiped out. I never sleep in because my pain worsens if I do. No way was I gonna stay in bed. My body protested as I forced myself out of bed. I took my son to school and had difficulty staying awake while on my way home. That scared me. I went to the bathroom and looked in the mirror, my cheeks were red and my heart sank.
I went to clinic and was treated poorly by the arnp who saw me. She talked to me like I was a small child with her voice hitched up an octave. She only saw a fat woman who said she is hurting and the exhaustion is just related to that. Unbeknownst to the arnp, I was prepared to be treated poorly and I brought my friend along. As the arnp went to leave the room telling me I'm fat, my friend spoke up.
"I think you need to check her for lupus!" She snapped as the arnp opened the door to leave.
"We can test for it if that's what you want. That would require lab work " the arnp replied as she walked out. As if I'm afraid of blood work...wtf?
Well, after that visit I was pretty angry to say the least. She didn't hear me. She based everything on my weight. Btw- yeah, I have SLE (systemic lupus erythematosus) and I've stopped forcing my body to do what I want and I've started to listen to those warning signs of worsening...like the sun. (I literally live in "The Sunshine State" lol)
Make your healthcare provider listen to you. Bring up everything no matter how small, small things can be indicative of something much bigger. Don't let someone treat you like a child and dismiss your concerns - you know your body better than anyone else.
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease, it means you can't catch lupus but it also means that a person with lupus has their own body attacking itself.


Canis lupus = wolf

Lupus got it's name because patients presented with symptoms associated with being bit by a wolf (facial lesions).
+
Purple is the awareness ribbon color for Lupus.
= purple wolf. (I rambled to an answer!)
This little wolf is a symbol of my fight against lupus.
You can make your wolf any color you want to make it ♡ they work up quickly and make great gifts ♡

MAY IS LUPUS AWARENESS MONTH

* I wanted  in finish pattern sooner but I really wanted to release this May, Lupus Awareness Month

** if you would like to learn more about lupus or donate to help with lupus research visit lupus.org .



Materials:

* Size 4 yarn of your choice, I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns and a bit of white for the tail and black for nose and features.

* f hook

* Fiberfill

* 9mm safety eyes - you can use yarn or embroidery thread

* Tapestry needle for weaving in ends etc

* Scissors

* embroidery thread or yarn for features

* pipe cleaner  (chenille stick)- optional, folded and twisted to help neck stay upright

Abbreviations:

Mr: magic ring

Ch: chain

Sl st: slip stitch

Sc: single crochet

Hdc: half double crochet

Dc: double crochet

Sc2tog: decrease with sc

Sc3tog: decrease by 2 sts with sc

Dc2tog: decrease with dc

Blo: back loop only

F.o.: fasten/finish off

Mirror: mirror crochet follow link for video tutorial by Sad Days Crochet (optional)


Notes

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2017.




You may do whatever you like with your completed Lupus Wolf, you can brave the dark together, donate them, sell them, fundraise with them or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my Lupus Wolf :)

Begin: 

Arms: x2 using main color

1: mr6 (6)

2: 2sc (12)

3-6: sc (12)

7: sc2, sc2tog (9)

8-14: sc (9) stuff hand lightly

15: flatten top of arm and crochet through 2 sts across (front and back), closing arm opening (4) f.o.


Tail: begin with white

1: mr4 (4)

2: sc, 2sc (6)

3: sc2, 2sc (8)

4: sc3, 2sc (10)

5: sc4, 2sc (12)

6: sc (12)

7: sc4, sc2tog (10) change to main color in last st

8-10: sc (10)

11: sc3, sc2tog (8)

12: sc (8)

13: sc, sc2tog (6)

14-18: sc (6) stuff tail end , not full length of tail

19: flatten tail and sc through 2sts (front and back) across (3) f.o.

Tail, arms and foot 1


Body: begin with feet


Foot: you will complete 1 and f.o., you will not f.o. 2nd foot because it leads to the body.

Ch5

1: in 2nd ch from hook sc, sc2, 3sc, turn to work along opposite side of ch- sc2, 2sc in last st (10) do not join-work in rnds

2: sc4, 3sc, sc4, 3sc (14)

3: sc4, 2hdc, 3dc, 2hdc, sc5, 2hdc, sc (21)

4: sc6, dc2tog, beginning in last st dc2tog, sc10 (18)

5: sc6, sc3tog, sc9 (16)

6: sc3, sc2tog x3, sc7 (13)

7: sc4, sc2tog, sc7 (12)

8-11: sc (12)

12: 2sc, sc11 (13)

13: sc (13)

14: 2sc, sc12 (14)

15: sc (14) f.o. leg 1 only

16: sc in 7th St from rnd marker in foot one, sc around leg 1, sc in 1st sk st of leg 2, sc to beginning. *if this doesn't seem right, find inner leg center st




17: sc, 2sc (42)

18-20: sc (42)

21: mark center back 3 sts for tail placement, sc to marked sts then sc through tail and body, sc to beginning (42) Tail locked in

22: sc19, sc2tog (40)

23: sc8, sc2tog (36)

24: sc (36)

25: sc7, sc2tog (32)

26-28: sc (32)

29: sc6, sc2tog (28)

30: sc (28)

31: sc5, sc2tog (24) stuff your wolf, I stuff lightly through legs and body, a little more to feet.

32: sc to middle of back and begin new rnd marker here, Mark off 4 sts on either side for arm placement (8 sc between arms) , sc to marked sts then through arm & body, sc to next marked sts then through arm and body, sc to beg marker (24) arms locked in




33: sc4, sc2tog (20)

34: sc3, sc2tog (16)

35: sc (16)

36: sc, 2sc (24)

37: sc2, 2sc (32)

38: sc7, 2sc (36)

39: sc (36) flatten work and mark center side sts over arms.



40: *sc to marked st (carry marker to 2nd st in next 3sc) 3sc* x2 sc to beg (40)

41: repeat 40 (44)

42: same as 40 but mark 1st of 3sc and carry marker (48)

43-45: sc (48) continue to carry side markers

46: sc to st before marker, *sc - mark this st, sc, sc3tog, sc to st before marker* x2 sc to beg (44)

47: *sc to marker (st before sc3tog) sc3tog* sc to beg (40)

48: sc (40) place safety eyes in desired location, mine are between rnd 46/47 7 sts apart, stuff neck a little firmer than body, if using pipe cleaner insert now



49: sc8, sc2tog (36)

50: sc (36)

51: sc4, sc2og (30) 

52: sc3, sc2tog (24) begin stuffing head a little firm like the neck and continue to stuff as you progress.

53: sc2, sc2tog (18)

54: sc, sc2tog (12)

55: sc2tog (6) f.o.


Muzzle: with main color

1: ch7, starting in 2nd ch- sc5, 3sc (turn to work up other side of ch), sc4, 2sc (14) do not join, continue working in continuous rnds

2: sc6, 3sc, sc6, 3sc (18)

3-4: sc (18)

5: sc7, sc2tog (16)

6: sc6,  sc2tog (14)

7: sc  (14) f.o. leave a long tail for attaching to head


Ears: make 2 ahead when beginning 2nd half leave a long tail for attaching to head

1: ch7, sc in 2nd ch and across (6) ch1 turn at end each row unless otherwise stated

2: mirror- sc (6)

3: sk 1st st, sc3, sk 1 st sc (4)

4: mirror- sc (4)

5: sk 1st st, sc, sk 1 st, sc (2)

6: mirror- sk 1st st, sc in last st

7: sc, ch 1 (1) f.o. 1st 2 ear pieces, on 3rd & 4th pieces continue

8: sc through one ear halves to the other around with *sc, ch1, sc* in each corner.


Eyebrows: x2 any color you like

Ch5, f.o. with a long tail

Finishing:

Place ears on head, I use straight pins to decide location before sewing in place. I used pieces of slightly darker purple yarn for ear tufts, I then separated the yarn to make it fluffier.
Line up your muzzle and pin to face, I stuff the muzzle firmly but not hard. After it has been sewn to head embroider your wolf nose and muzzle, you can shape the muzzle a bit by tightening  mouth lines. I also use a bit of white yarn to create 2 small pointed teeth. 
Use a bit of black yarn on paws to create toes, tightening here can give more shape to the paws.  (I used a fingering wt yarn but you can use Ww or use 2 ply of Ww yarn)
Eyebrows, pin your ch in desired location and sew over the chain, this gives brows a ridge.

Weave in all the ends and enjoy your wolf!