Ninja Turtle inspired Ice Pop Cozy

Ninja Turtle inspired Ice Pop Cozy

A friend was looking for some cool ice pop cozies for some kiddos...I saw some great patterns on Ravelry but I wanted to create a Ninja Turtle inspired one.  I found great patterns for everything but no ninjas...or turtles.

Here is my meager attempt at creating some cool little reptiles wearing masks ;)

Materials:

E hook (if you find this too tight/loose go up or down in hook size)

ww cotton in green

ww cotton in mask color - purple, orange, red, blue 

ww cotton in black for eyes (you can use and yarn for this or even embroidery thread)

scissors

Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

mr: magic ring
ch: chain
rnd: round
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
blo: back loop only, instead of both loops you will use only back loop
f.o. : finish off

Notes:

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2016.  

You may do whatever you like with your completed Ninja Turtle inspired Ice Pop Cozies, you can embrace your inner child and use these yourself, sell them to others ready to keep the evil Foot Clan at bay or even give them as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own.  You can share a link to this pattern if you like.


Directions: worked in joined rnds. Ch1 at end of each rnd does NOT count as a st in this pattern

1: mr 8sc (8) join with a sl st, ch1 at end of each rnd

2: 2sc (16) be sure to secure mr end before continuing

3: blo: sc (16)

4-9: hdc (16) change to mask color at end of rnd 9

10:  ch11, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, hdc to end, ch11, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, join to first hdc with a sl st (16)

11: hdc (16) change to green

12-13:  hdc (16) f.o. weave in ends.

Finishing:

With black, create eyes.  I do one eye at a time and secure the ends with knots on the inside of the cozy and cut short.  (they won't show)  I also give the mask a little single tie.

That's it, pretty simple right? Now your kiddos can stay cool and feel super cool at the same time!

Star Scrubby Washcloth/Dishcloth crochet pattern

I finally got all the orders on my Etsy board cleared last night and came up with a new design...pretty basic - think granny square-ish, but I think they turned out cute!

Star Scrubby

Materials

I hook

cotton ww yarn in colors of choice I used Peaches & Creme & Crafters Secret cotton

Red Heart Scrubby in your choice of colors

tapestry needle

scissors

Abbreviations

mr: maging ring

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

f.o.: finish off

sk: skip

mc: main color

cc: contrast color

* : repeat directions between * for times (x) indicated

Note:

Unless noted otherwise: ch 1 at end of each row does not count as stitch.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  

This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Star Scrubby washcloths/dishcloths: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.


Directions:

Version 1:  Grey cotton/Orange Scrubby

1: begin with cotton: mr, ch3, 2dc, ch3 *3dc, ch3, 3dc* x4 join with a sl st to top of beginning ch3. tighten mr. (10 3dc, 5 ch sp) turn

2: sl st in 3ch sp, ch3 2dc ch3 3dc in ch sp, *3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch sp* x4, join with a sl st to top of 1st 3ch - do NOT turn work again

3: sl st, ch3, dc, 3dc ch3 3dc in ch sp (point of star) dc2, sk 2 sts *dc2, 3dc ch3 3dc in ch sp, dc2 sk2 sts* x4 join with a sl st to top 1st ch 3.

4: sl st, ch3, dc3, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc4 sk 2 sts, *dc4, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc4, sk 2 sts* x4 join with a sl st to top of 1st ch3.

5: sl st- CHANGE to Scrubby yarn, ch3 dc5, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc6, sk 2sts *dc6, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc6 sk 2 sts* x4 join with a sl st to top of 1st 3ch- CHANGE to cotton yarn

6: sl st, ch1, sc8, 7sc in point, sc8, sk 2 sts *sc8. 7sc in point, sc8 sk 2 sts* x4 join with a sl st, f.o. weave in ends

Version 2 :

Work the same as version 1 except:

Begin with Scrubby yarn: start with a ch4 joined with a sl st instead of mr.  Use Scrubby yarn for rnds 1 & 2.  CHANGE to cotton for rnds 3-6

I hope you enjoyed making your Star Scrubby!

Share pictures of your creations using #MommyMadeCrochet & MMCStarScrubby on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, I love seeing your work!

You can also share your work on my Facebook page!

Divisive Orange Candidate Stressball - Trumpelstiltskin - Free Crochet Pattern

Seriously, the greatest stressball. 

The Divisive Orange Candidate stressball (based on Trumpelstiltskin) is the best stressball. Not only is it the best stressball, it is the orangest and greatest stress relieving stressball ever, and I know because I feel that way so it must be true. I'm not kidding, no stressball could ever top this.

^^^ seriously ...that was difficult type lol

The Divisive Orange Candidate Stressball was created because I honestly needed to physically poke this candidate in the nose!

The hair is fabulously neon yellow, and perfect. He has his mouth poised to say something...what could it be? Who knows? It's like a wild card for a deck of wildcards.

I hope you enjoy making your very own Divisive Orange Candidate, please share with #MommyMadeCrochet or #Trumpelstiltskin so I can be sure to see your creations!

Materials:

*a small amount of white felt for teeth

*fine tip black marker - to create "teeth"

*orange yarn, small amount black yarn - I used Red Heart Super Saver in orange (pumpkin maybe? it's bright)

*black yarn for eyes

*skn colored yarn for lips _ I used Caron Simply Soft in Lt Country Peach

*Yarn needle (tapestry etc) for weaving in ends and finish work

*F hook - or size you need to create a tight fabric, so stuffing material doesn't show through

*fiberfill 

*scissors

* neon yellow fun fur ( I found this in a discount bag at Hobby Lobby and I knew where it had to be used!)

Abbreviations:

mr- magic ring

blo: back loop only - sts are worked through back loop instead of both

yo- yarn over

ch - chain

f.o. - finish off

sl st - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

sc2tog - sc 2 sts together-decrease : insert hook into first st, yo draw through stitch- 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st, yo draw through st - 3 sts on hook, yo draw through all sts on hook. If you work this st in the flo (front loop only) you will create an "invisible decrease", the st lies flatter.

hdc: half double crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet (some ppl call it "triple crochet")

Notes:

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2016.  

You may do whatever you like with your completed Divisive Orange Candidate, you can embrace your inner business person and sell your Trumpelstiltskin, watch him fly as you fastball pitch him into a wall or even give it as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design Trumpelstiltskin a.k.a. Divisive Orange Candidate :)  

Top of Head: with orange

1: mr6 (6)

2-3: 2sc (12/24)

4: sc, 2sc (36)

5-19: sc (36)

20: blo- sc, sc2tog (24)

21: both loops again: sc2tog (12) stuff.  Squeeze it, make sure you're happy with the squishiness of your stressball

22: sc2tog (6) f.o. use tail of yarn to cinch bottom closed, weave in ends

Lips:  x2 with skin color

1: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5) f.o. leave a tail for attaching to face

Ears: with orange

Ear 1:

1: ch6, hdc in 2nd ch, hdc, 2dc, 2dc, tr, ch2, sc in same st as tr   (8) f.o.leave a tail for attaching to head

Ear 2:

1:ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch2,, tr into same st as sc, 2dc, 2dc, hdc2 (8)  f.o.leave a tail for attaching to head

Eyebrows: x2  with orange

1: mr4 (4)

2-6: sc (4) f.o. leave a tail for attaching to head. do not stuff eyebrows

Nose: with orange starting at bridge of nose

1: ch2, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook (3) turn

2: ch1, sc across, join with a sl st to first sc of this row.  f.o. leave a long rail for attaching to face,

You should have all kinds of body parts now!  

Finishing:

I took a few pictures along the way to help demonstrate location and a little fuzzy surface crochet technique. Someone took picture with a better view: I use  "Method 2" located here .

The mouth I made with a fine tipped Sharpie on some white felt

Look at the front of the face and attach your mouth, you can glue the felt or add a cpl stitches with thread, it will mostly be hidden by the lips.  The lips are placed ch side down and curved around the mouth to give a puckered look.  You could even make one lip, no teeth and use as a pouty looking lower lip form, your stress ball, you decide!

Nose, bridge up

Eyebrow, ear, nose & eye placement.  If you pull the eye yarn to the next eye you can sink his beady eyes in a little, just weave between the eyes while squeezing his eye area towards each other,

Surface crochet hair.  You can see a outline the hairline with the fun fur, then I will continue in a shrinking spiral until i'm happy with the hair amt. 

one row of surface crochet across the outside of his brows helps to add emphasis to his scowling face.

the eyebrow on the left has already been "fluffed".  I do this by using a tapestry needle and pulling the trapped hair loops free. His Eyebrows will need trimming before you are completed but they will loop fuller.

Another view of "fluffed" fun fur vs unfluffed

I don't trim his yellow locks, but I do trim the eyebrows after fluffing.

                                                                

I hope you enjoyed creating your little Divisive Orange Candidate stress ball and I hope it brings you relief!

Birdie the Candidate (Birdie Sanders) - Crochet Pattern

Birdie the Candidate (Birdie Sanders)

The pattern writing process never seems a problem...transcribing is a different story!  I write out my patterns in a small binder with pencil. I tend to draw my idea before I crochet, then I compare my work to the drawing as I work to see if I'm happy with results, proportions are to my liking etc etc.

Birdie the Candidate example of pattern writing process

Birdie the Candidate is a quick little project that can easily be completed in a couple hours (I spend a lot of time with "finishing" lol)  You will only need a few supplies and an eagerness to crochet!  If you create Birdie I would love to see your pictures, use #MommyMadeCrochet on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter!

Materials:

*6mm safety eyes - you can embroider if you prefer

*a small amount of white felt for sclera (whites of eyes)

*blue yarn and a darker blue yarn (for beak) - I used Red Heart Super Saver in blue for Birdie and Royal for beak

*20 gauge craft wire - I used a cheap roll of copper jewelry making wire I got at Wal-Mart for a couple of dollars. 

*round nose/needle nosed pliers and side cutters - another cheap purchase I picked up for a few dollars in a pack together at Wal-Mart

*Yarn needle (tapestry etc) for weaving in ends and finish work

*F hook - or size you need to create a tight fabric, so stuffing material doesn't show through

*fiberfill 

*scissors

* white fun fur

Abbreviations:

mr- magic ring

yo- yarn over

ch - chain

f.o. - finish off

sl st - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

sc2tog - sc 2 sts together-decrease : insert hook into first st, yo draw through stitch- 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st, yo draw through st - 3 sts on hook, yo draw through all sts on hook. If you work this st in the flo (front loop only) you will create an "invisible decrease", the st lies flatter.

Notes:

All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2016.  

You may do whatever you like with your completed Birdie the Candidate, you brought this cutie to life so it is yours. You can sell your Birdie, fly across the country with your Birdie or even bring Birdie along to a Bernie rally!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design Birdie the Candidate :)  

Body: with blue starting at top of head

1: mr 6sc (6)

2: 2sc (12)

3: sc, 2sc (18)

4-6: sc (18)

7: sc10, *2sc, sc* x4 (22)

8: sc10, *2sc, sc2* x4 (26)

9: sc10, *2sc, sc3* x4 (30)

10-12: sc (30)

13: sc2tog x5, sc20 (25)

14: sc3, sc2tog (20)  cut your felt for sclera , insert safety eye shaft and place between rows 6/7 4sts apart.  While holding my Birdie upright I counted approx 4 sts to the right of my round marker and inserted the first eye into the 4th st.  Begin stuffing firmly and continue as you progress

15-16: sc2tog (10/5) f.o. leaving a tail of yarn to close hole.

Beak: with royal

1: mr 4sc (4)

2: sc, 2sc (6)

3: sc2, 2sc (8)

4: sc (8) f.o. leave a long tail for attaching to body

Wing 1: with blue

1: mr 8sc, join with a sl st to first st (8)  turn

2: ch1, sc3 (3) turn

3: ch6, sl st in 1st sc, sl st in next st

    ch8, sl st in same st, sl st in the next st

    ch10, sl st in same st, sl st in the next, sc around to beginning row 3, f.o. leave a tail for attaching to body.

Wing 2: with blue

repeat 1 & 2 from wing 1 and then:

3: ch10, sl st in first sc, sl st in the next st

    ch8, sl st in same st, sl st in the next st

    ch6, sl st in same st, sl st in the next, sc around to beginning row 3. f.o. leave a tail for attaching to the body.

Tail: with blue

1: mr 8sc, join with a sl st to first st (8) turn

2: ch1, sc4 (4) turn

3: ch 8, sl st in first sc, sl st in the next st

    ch 12, sl st in same st, sl st in the next st

    ch 12, sl st in same st, sl st in the next st

    ch 8, sl st in same st , sl st f.o. leave a long tail for attaching to body.

 

Finishing:

Begin by attaching Birdie's beak, wings (shortest chain towards bottom of Birdie) and tail. I used a technique called surface crochet to attach hair to Birdie. Here is a great tutorial, because you will be working on 3 dimensional surfaces I use "method 2"  I only made about 2 rows of hair, you can judge if its enough or too little.  I also trimmed Birdie's hair a bit because it is pretty long :)

The glasses are the trickiest part for me.  The "lens" area is approx 0.5" squared (1.25cm) I made a small template with a bit of plastic I had cut from a Rubbermaid tote (leftover scrap from a dog house I made for my little old muppie). 

There are two options after you shape your glasses: option 1- use your round nose pliers to create little clamps to hold the glasses together. Option 2 - use a bit "E6000" glue and along the top of the glasses and allow it to cure for a bit.  After your glasses are ready to be put on, set them gently into the position you think looks best, I then will bed the "earpiece" a bit to mark location of loops to be made, I place mine in the hair a bit to hide the loops. Take your round nose pliers and create a loop, make sure you can pass a needle through the loop!  now that that is done on both earpieces its time to attach!  I use a small bit of white embroidery floss, you could use sewing thread if you prefer.  I also use a single strand of black embroidery thread to secure nose-piece of glasses.

Finishing can be fun! This is where your artistry shines!

Rubbermaid template

The black represents wire in back and red is wire in front.  All one piece of wire.

I truly hope you enjoyed creating a Birdie the Candidate!  If you have any questions please Message me!

Newborn Wizard Hat crochet pattern - Inspired by Harry Potter

As I made this hat I could hear "You're a Wizard Harry" in my head lol

Our family enjoyed reading the Harry Potter Books and watching the movies together, so it was a natural progression to welcome my grandson Jayce with his own 1st year wizard hat <3

Hagrid whispering: You're a wizard Jayce!

Materials:

Black ww yarn - I used Red Heart Super Saver

G hook

large eye needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations:

Mr: magic ring

sc: singlecrochet

hdc: half double crochet

f.o.: finish off

Notes:

If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.
This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Wizard hats: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly on your Nimbus 2000 with them or go to a Quidditch game with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.

Directions:

1: mr 4hdc (4)

2: 2hdc, hdc (6)

3: 2hdc, hdc (9)

4: 2hdc, hdc2 (12)

5: 2hdc, hdc3 (15)

6: 2hdc, hdc 4 (18)

7: 2hdc, hdc5 (21)

8: 2hdc, hdc6 (24)

9: 2hdc, hdc7 (27)

10: 2hdc, hdc8 (30)

11: 2hdc, hdc9 (33)

12:  2hdc, hdc10 (36)

13:  2hdc, hdc11 (39)

14: 2hdc, hdc12 (42)

15: 2hdc, hdc13 (45)

16: 2hdc, hdc14 (48)

17: 2hdc, hdc15 (51)

18: 2hdc, hdc16 (54)

19: sc (54) f.o. weave in ends

Newborn Elmo Hat

Jayce likes his Elmo pictures

Materials:

J hook

I hook (eyes/nose)

Large eye needle to weave in ends and attach eyes

Ww yarn in Red and small amt in black, white and orange  (I use RedHeart Super Saver yarns)

Small amt of fiberfill or yarn scraps

Abbreviations :

MR : magic ring

Ch:  chain

Sl st:  slip stitch

Sc:  single crochet

sc2tog:  single crochet two stitches together (decrease)

Dc:  double crochet

F.o. :  finish off

BLO:  back loops only

Note:

Unless noted otherwise: ch at beginning of each round does not count as stitch.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.
This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Elmo hats: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.

Hat: with J hook with J hook and red (approximately 5.5" from crown to brim- mid ear)

1:  Mr 10dc (10) at end of each round join with a sl st and ch 2 (does not count as dc)

2: 2dc (20)

3: 2dc, dc (30)

4: sk 1st st, dc to last st, 2dc in last st (30)

5: dc (30)

6:  repeat rnd 4/5 2x (30) (if you want a little longer add rnds here!)

7: sc around f.o. weave in ends - I like to add a round of loosely worked sl st at the end to finish nicely. You can try it or not -Elmo hat pictured does not have sl st  :)


Eyes: x2  with I hook and white

1: mr 6sc (6)

2:  2sc (12)

3: 2sc, sc (18)

4-5: sc (18)

6: BLO: sc2tog, sc (12) stuff with yarn scraps or a small amt of fiberfill

7: sc2tog (6)  f.o. you can leave a long end for attaching to head: cinch opening closed and hide yarn to skipped front loops of round 6


Pupils: x2 with black

1: Mr 6sc (6) f.o. leave a long end for attaching to eye


Nose: with orange

1: mr sc6

2: 2sc (12)

3: 2sc, sc2 (16)

4: sc (16)

5: sc2tog, sc2 (12) begin to stuff nose lightly

6: sc2tog (6) f.o. leave a long end for attaching to hat.  Be sure to stuff very lightly, cinch opening in nose closed (this is end of nose closest to  eyes (oblong nose)


Finishing:

Attach pupils to eyes in desired location, I used center.  Attach eyes to head being sure to keep them close together and even in row height.  Attach nose close to eyes with last round worked being "top of nose" and 1st round being closest to bottom of hat. Use black and your tapestry needle to create a smile and you're done!

If I was to make another I may attach the eyes closer.

Newborn Long Stocking Cap (photo prop)

Nap time

So a new baby brings out my creativity...that is apparent now.  I officially can't stop lol

Here is another cute pattern for a newborn photo prop hat.

Materials:

I hook 

Large eye needle to weave in ends and attach eyes

Ww yarn in color choice (I use Caron Simply Soft Baby in Misty Green )

Abbreviations :

MR : magic ring

Ch:  chain

Sl st:  slip stitch

Dc:  double crochet

F.o. :  finish off

Note:

Unless noted otherwise: ch2 at beginning of each round does not count as stitch.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.
This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Newborn Long Stocking Caps: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.

Directions:

1: Mr 4dc (4) at end of each round: join with a sl st, ch2

2-3: dc (4) hide the beginning tail now or you may have some difficulty later on!

4: 2dc, dc3 (5)

5: dc (5)

6: dc2, 2dc, dc2 (6)

7: dc (6)

8: 2dc, dc5 (7)

9: dc (7)

10: dc3, 2dc, dc3 (8)

11: dc (8)

12: 2dc, dc7 (9)

13: dc (9)

14: dc4, 2dc, dc4 (10)

15: dc (10)

16: 2dc, dc9 (11)

17: dc (11)

18: 2dc, dc (14)

19: dc (14)

20: 2dc, dc, 2dc, dc2, 2dc, dc, 2dc, dc2, (2dc, dc) x2 (20)  

21: 2dc, dc (30)

22:  2dc, dc2 (40)

23-29: dc (40)

30: sc f.o. weave in ends

Finishing:

I made a quick little tassel for the end of this hat, you can make one or not, or try a pom pom or add a crescent moon!  Your imagination is all that is holding back!

Jack Skellington Hat

Adult size hat

My grandson Jayce in his Jack Hat

We love Tim Burton around this house...like really a lot.  So of course my sweet little kinder Jayce NEEDED a Jack Skellington hat.  It is super easy to whip up and so darn adorable on <3

Materials:

I hook (J hook newborn size)

Large eye needle to weave in ends and attach eyes

Ww yarn in white and small amt in black (I use RedHeart Super Saver yarns)

Abbreviations :

MR : magic ring

Ch:  chain

Sl st:  slip stitch

Sc:  single crochet

Hdc:  half double crochet

Dc:  double crochet

F.o. :  finish off

Note:

Unless noted otherwise: ch at beginning of each round does not count as stitch.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted. 
This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Jack Skellington hats: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.

Newborn hat: with J hook with J hook and white (approximately 5.5" from crown to brim- mid ear)

1:  Mr 10dc (10) at end of each round join with a sl st and ch 2 (does not count as dc)

2: 2dc (20)

3: 2dc, dc (30)

4: sk 1st st, dc to last st, 2dc in last st (30)

5: dc (30)

6:  repeat rnd 4/5 2x (30) (if you want a little longer add rnds here!)

7: sc around f.o. weave in ends - I like to add a round of loosely worked sl st at the end to finish nicely. You can try it or not :)

Eyes: x2 with J hook and black

1:  Mr 10dc (10) join with invisible join/sl st f.o. leaving a long tail to attach eye to hat. 

*Note- I will leave one end long enough to attach eye and create nose sts and the second eye I leave a longer tail to attach eye and create mouth.  You can make those features with another piece of yarn if you desire.

Teen/Adult hat: with I hook and white (mid ear length)

1:  Mr 12dc (12)  at end of each round: join with a sl st, ch 2 (does not count as dc)

2:  2dc (24)

3: 2dc, dc (36)

4: dc2, 2dc (48)

5: 2dc, dc3 (60)

6:  sk 1st st, dc to last st, 2dc in last st. (60)

7: dc (60)

8-14: repeat rows 6/7  4x (if you want hat longer add rounds!)

15: loosely sl st around. F.o. weave in ends

Eyes: x2 (teen/adult) with I hook and black

1:  Mr 10dc (10) join with sl st, ch 2

2:  2hdc (20)  f.o. (invisible join or sl st) leaving a long tail for attaching to hat
*Note- I will leave one end long enough to attach eye and create nose sts and the second eye I leave a longer tail to attach eye and create mouth.  You can make those features with another piece of yarn if you desire.

Finishing:

Attach eyes to hat.  Using black, create nose and mouth. Weave in all ends and enjoy!


UPDATE:

I love photography and I'm learning lightroom/photoshop so Jayce got a pic edited with Jack in the background ;)

Easy Textured Washcloth/Dishcloth pattern

My sweet grandson had me so nervous before his big entrance that I had to keep my hands busy!

Cotton washcloths and dishcloths are the best!

I came up with a quick washcloth pattern as I was overly anxious before my daughter had her cutie son yesterday! I had to keep my hands busy!!

Cotton cloth approximately 8" square

Materials

H hook

cotton ww yarn

tapestry needle

scissors

Abbreviations

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

hdc: half double crochet

dc: double crochet

f.o.: finish off

sk: skip

Note:

Unless noted otherwise: ch at end of each row does not count as stitch.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  

This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Washcloths/Dishcloths: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.

Directions:

ch 30 (or any multiple of 2 to reach desired size!)

1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, *sk one ch, sc & dc in next ch*, in last ch hdc. ch1 turn

2:  hdc in 1st st, *sk st, sc & dc in next st*, hdc in last st. ch1 turn

           *Note: you will be making sc/dc in sc sts from previous row always

3-?: repeat row 2 until desired length, I made about 22 rows total

when you reach desired size f.o. and use tapestry needle to weave in ends 

Closer pic of cloth

Happy hooking!

Crochet Cotton Moccasin Shoes (Adult size)

After playing around a bit  I think I have the answer to a pattern for adult sizes :)  Kids size available here

I have not added optional fringe at this point 

Materials

*I hook
*Cotton Yarn- I used Peaches & Cream (medium weight size 4)

*Cheap Flip Flops- I got flip flops for $0.98 a pair at Wal-Mart (these are one size larger than my shoe size, you could probably buy the correct size for a snug fit -I don't want tight shoes) 

*Puffy Paint - I use this to fill hole on sole

*Sharp scissors (to cut flip flops & jute)

*optional- drill with a small bit to put holes in sole (this can be accomplished with a needle as well, but I felt it was a little less labor intensive to pre-drill holes)

*large eye needle to sew jute to sole

*Twisted Jute Twine (see pic!)

*something to measure with & a Sharpie- to mark holes

This is the Jute I used

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

mirror sc: a style of crochet that gives row work the appearance of rounds Mirror sc video (you can use regular sc if you prefer or you can learn this great stitch!)

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

BLO: crochet in back loop only

Rsc: reverse single crochet reverse sc video

Third Loop: you will sew the toe in place through these loops third loop

Hdc: half double crochet

Hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Hdc3tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease 2 sts)

Dc:  double crochet

Tr: treble crochet

Tr2tog: treble crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Note: 

Unless noted otherwise: ch at end of each row and join rounds with a sl st.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  

This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Moccasins: sell them at farmer's markets, wear them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.  

Directions:

Begin by preparing flip flops, see How to make flip flop soles

Because all the st counts will be different based on size we will mark our soles to indicate toe/heel areas.

My toe marker is 3 sts toward toe from back straps and my heel marker is 1 st away from straps-4 spaces between.  place your foot over the sole, does this line up for you?  If you want to move your markers now is the time to get the best fit for your feet.  Think "sock heel" for heel area.

We will be crocheting over the knot, it won't be missed :)

Begin crochet:

Toe: make 2 

ch 11 (is this too long/short for the toe end? Change this by inc or dec begin ch)

1: sc in2nd ch from hook across, ch1 turn (at end of every row) (10) < your number may be different

2: mirror sc, ch1 turn (10)

3: increase row- 2sc, sc8, 2sc, ch1 turn (12) 

4: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

5:  optional increase row- (I did not need to increase this row for size 9/10 women's) if you need to increase increase 2 in first and last sts. if no increase necessary: sc,ch1 turn (12)

Keep the width of your "toe" within the jute boundaries (toe touches outer edge of jute ch at arch)

6: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

7: sc, ch1 turn (12)

8: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

* repeat rows 7 & 8 until you are near the toe markers in length ending with a row 7 (about 1 st away) (I made a color change in the last row 7 I made- row 19 for me I left a long tail of the variegated to stitch to shoe later)

next row: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12) (this row or next should be even with your toe markers)

next row: BLO sc, ch 1 do not turn (12) 

last row: rsc across f.o. weave in ends.

Side upper:

begin crochet in inner sole always

1: 2hdc in each ch around (go through both loops of jute, hide ends of knot as you work), join with a sl st, ch 1

2: (I changed color, you don't need to) sc around shoe, at center of heel sc2tog x2, continue to sc to end, join with a sl st, ch1 (I changed color back-this is optional)

3: sc to heel first heel marker, hdc2tog, hdc to center 4 sts of heel-  hdc2tog x2  in center 4 sts of heel, hdc to 2 sts before last heel marker, hdc2tog (finishing st in marked st), sc after heel marker to end of round, join with a sl st, ch1

4: *between heel sts work: hdc3tog, hdc, dc to center 10 sts of heel, tr2tog x5, dc to last 3 sts of heel hdc3tog, 

*between heel and toe markers: sc to 2 sts before toe marker (when shoe toe up) sc2tog;  when working towards heel from toe the 1st 2 sts of sc are sc2tog (2 decreases) 

*between toe markers: hdc to approx 6 sts before toe hole: sc to approx 6 sts after toe hole on opposite side, hdc to next toe marker

at end of row join with a sl st and ch1  pull up a long loop- time to attach toe

Line up the BLO row with the toe markers and pin in place

Attach toe by stitching around shoe using the 3rd loop of row 4 

After you toe is sewn in place pick up your loop and continue with crochet

5: *between heel markers:hdc2tog, hdc to center 6 sts- hdc2tog x3, hdc to last 2 sts between heel markers- hdc2tog

*toe from heel markers sc to sts before toe marker, sc2tog, sc to next tow marker, sc2tog, sc to heel marker.

f.o. weave in ends.  Cut some fringe and attach to skipped front loops of blo row of toe :)

Crochet under both loops of jute ch!

Let your imagination run wild!  Please share your pics of completed projects on my Facebook page :)

Adult Moccasin Sneak Peak

I've been working on getting a pattern for adult sizes and I think I finally got it!

***PATTERN Coming soon***

Cotton Moccasin Shoes with Flip Flop Soles (children's 11/12 flip flop)

I get creative slumps where I can't decide what to make and I look all over for inspiration. I was tooling through Pinterest and saw some cute moccasin slippers, but Florida is kinda warm for slippers... so I thought about thick felt bottom slippers, kinda durable but again really too warm for slippers.

Flip Flops are $0.98 at Wal-Mart and that's what most people in Florida wear...cotton breathes...Jute is durable.... *lightbulb flickers on

Adult size : Adult Crochet Moccasin Shoes

Cotton Moccasins

 *My granddaughter will be getting these soon!

Materials

*I hook
*Cotton Yarn- I used Peaches & Cream (medium weight size 4)

*Cheap Flip Flops- I got flip flops for $0.98 a pair at Wal-Mart (these are one size larger than my granddaughter wears-smallest they had- I bought a pair one size larger for the adult pair I'm making as well-I don't want tight shoes) 

*Puffy Paint - I use this to fill hole on sole

*Sharp scissors (to cut flip flops & jute)

*optional- drill with a small bit to put holes in sole (this can be accomplished with a needle as well, but I felt it was a little less labor intensive to pre-drill holes)

*large eye needle to sew jute to sole

*Twisted Jute Twine (see pic!)

*something to measure with & a Sharpie- to mark holes 

This is the Jute Twine I used

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

mirror sc: a style of crochet that gives row work the appearance of rounds Mirror sc video (you can use regular sc if you prefer or you can learn this great stitch!)

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

BLO: crochet in back loop only

Rsc: reverse single crochet reverse sc video

Third Loop: you will sew the toe in place through these loops third loop

Hdc: half double crochet

Hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Dc:  double crochet

Note: 

Unless noted otherwise: ch at end of each row and join rounds with a sl st.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  

This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Moccasins: sell them at farmer's markets, wear them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.  

Directions:

Prepare the Flip Flops:

Cut the toe from the flip flop and...

...cut the back straps at an angle and turn outwards.
*Leave the back straps in place*

Mark around bottom of sole in 1/2" increments
*I had 35 dots on each sole*

Optional- drill through marked holes
*you can use a needle if you're tough ;)

Similar to a "chain stitch"
1: using jute- insert needle through hole from inner sole to outer and return through next hole
2: loop around end of jute and return needle through hole you just came through, do NOT pull too tight
3: bottom of shoe view- this stitch will create a "solid" line of sts
4: push needle from outer sole to inner sole through next hole
5: insert needle through previous loop
6: return needle through hole it just came through
7: push needle from outer sole and through previous loop
*continue around, join with a knot (will be hidden under work)

Left- inner sole;  right- outer sole

Begin crochet: 

Toe: make 2

ch 9 (with color of your choice, I used a variegated yarn)

1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (8) *ch1 turn at end of each of row unless otherwise noted

2: mirror sc  

3: sc (8)

4: mirror sc (8)

5: 2sc. sc6. 2sc (10)

6: mirror sc (10)

7: sc (10)

8: mirror sc (10)

9: sc (10)

10: mirror sc (10)

11: sc (10)

12: mirror sc (10)

13: sc, change color in last st (if you want too) (I leave a long tail of variegated for sewing to shoe)

14: mirror sc (10)

15: BLO- sc (10)

16: rsc across, f.o. weave in end.

Side upper:

with cotton color of your choice (I join yarn near inner foot, back strap hole)

1: 2dc through each of the top two loops on the sole around, join with a sl st (70) 

2: ch1, sc around, join with a sl st (70)

3: ch1, sc around to center back heel- sc2tog, continue sc to row end; join with a sl st (69)

4: ch1, sc around to center back heel- sc2tog, continue to sc to row end- (68) drop this part of work, careful not to unravel

attach toe:

mark off 36 stitches evenly for front of shoe place markers, pin toe in place: color change row to markers ***sew toe in place before continuing pattern  Attach toe by stitching through 3rd loop of shoe round 4 and toe edge

Sew through third loop- marker to marker

continue shoe:

pick up yarn loop from round 4

5: sc around to heel, find center 10 stitches of heel and begin with hdc2, hdc2tog x3, hdc2, sc to end of row. (65) f.o. weave in ends.

Finishing:

Cut some small pieces of yarn (approx 4 inches) and loop through skipped front loops of toe row 15 for fringe.

I used puffy paint to fill the holes left from the toe strap.  You could probably use caulk, but I had puffy paint ;)

Bottom of moccasins, puffy paint in toe hole

Purple fringe!

I'm starting a pair of larger shoes (as seen in the pics that feature chartreuse flip flops- I hope it works out!

Have fun and happy hooking!

Anna

Update:

Anna got her moccasins and she loves them!!!  She is fighting a virus making it's rounds through  our town :( She is chillin' here with some Scooby Doo now :)

My sweet Noo Noo, best  model ever, always beautiful!

You really made these for me? Thank you Ya Ya!