Showing posts with label handmade. Show all posts
Showing posts with label handmade. Show all posts

Thursday, July 23, 2015

Crochet Cotton Moccasin Shoes (Adult size)

After playing around a bit  I think I have the answer to a pattern for adult sizes :)  Kids size available here

I have not added optional fringe at this point 

Materials

*I hook
*Cotton Yarn- I used Peaches & Cream (medium weight size 4)
*Cheap Flip Flops- I got flip flops for $0.98 a pair at Wal-Mart (these are one size larger than my shoe size, you could probably buy the correct size for a snug fit -I don't want tight shoes) 
*Puffy Paint - I use this to fill hole on sole
*Sharp scissors (to cut flip flops & jute)
*optional- drill with a small bit to put holes in sole (this can be accomplished with a needle as well, but I felt it was a little less labor intensive to pre-drill holes)
*large eye needle to sew jute to sole
*Twisted Jute Twine (see pic!)
*something to measure with & a Sharpie- to mark holes
This is the Jute I used

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

mirror sc: a style of crochet that gives row work the appearance of rounds Mirror sc video (you can use regular sc if you prefer or you can learn this great stitch!)

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

BLO: crochet in back loop only

Rsc: reverse single crochet reverse sc video

Third Loop: you will sew the toe in place through these loops third loop

Hdc: half double crochet

Hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Hdc3tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease 2 sts)

Dc:  double crochet

Tr: treble crochet

Tr2tog: treble crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Note: 

Unless noted otherwise: ch at end of each row and join rounds with a sl st.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  
This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Moccasins: sell them at farmer's markets, wear them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.  


Directions:


Begin by preparing flip flops, see How to make flip flop soles


Because all the st counts will be different based on size we will mark our soles to indicate toe/heel areas.
My toe marker is 3 sts toward toe from back straps and my heel marker is 1 st away from straps-4 spaces between.  place your foot over the sole, does this line up for you?  If you want to move your markers now is the time to get the best fit for your feet.  Think "sock heel" for heel area.

We will be crocheting over the knot, it won't be missed :)


Begin crochet:


Toe: make 2 

ch 11 (is this too long/short for the toe end? Change this by inc or dec begin ch)

1: sc in2nd ch from hook across, ch1 turn (at end of every row) (10) < your number may be different

2: mirror sc, ch1 turn (10)

3: increase row- 2sc, sc8, 2sc, ch1 turn (12) 

4: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

5:  optional increase row- (I did not need to increase this row for size 9/10 women's) if you need to increase increase 2 in first and last sts. if no increase necessary: sc,ch1 turn (12)
Keep the width of your "toe" within the jute boundaries (toe touches outer edge of jute ch at arch)
6: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

7: sc, ch1 turn (12)

8: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

* repeat rows 7 & 8 until you are near the toe markers in length ending with a row 7 (about 1 st away) (I made a color change in the last row 7 I made- row 19 for me I left a long tail of the variegated to stitch to shoe later)

next row: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12) (this row or next should be even with your toe markers)

next row: BLO sc, ch 1 do not turn (12) 

last row: rsc across f.o. weave in ends.


Side upper:

begin crochet in inner sole always

1: 2hdc in each ch around (go through both loops of jute, hide ends of knot as you work), join with a sl st, ch 1

2: (I changed color, you don't need to) sc around shoe, at center of heel sc2tog x2, continue to sc to end, join with a sl st, ch1 (I changed color back-this is optional)

3: sc to heel first heel marker, hdc2tog, hdc to center 4 sts of heel-  hdc2tog x2  in center 4 sts of heel, hdc to 2 sts before last heel marker, hdc2tog (finishing st in marked st), sc after heel marker to end of round, join with a sl st, ch1

4: *between heel sts work: hdc3tog, hdc, dc to center 10 sts of heel, tr2tog x5, dc to last 3 sts of heel hdc3tog, 
*between heel and toe markers: sc to 2 sts before toe marker (when shoe toe up) sc2tog;  when working towards heel from toe the 1st 2 sts of sc are sc2tog (2 decreases) 
*between toe markers: hdc to approx 6 sts before toe hole: sc to approx 6 sts after toe hole on opposite side, hdc to next toe marker

at end of row join with a sl st and ch1  pull up a long loop- time to attach toe

Line up the BLO row with the toe markers and pin in place
Attach toe by stitching around shoe using the 3rd loop of row 4 
After you toe is sewn in place pick up your loop and continue with crochet

5: *between heel markers:hdc2tog, hdc to center 6 sts- hdc2tog x3, hdc to last 2 sts between heel markers- hdc2tog
*toe from heel markers sc to sts before toe marker, sc2tog, sc to next tow marker, sc2tog, sc to heel marker.

f.o. weave in ends.  Cut some fringe and attach to skipped front loops of blo row of toe :)

Crochet under both loops of jute ch!



Let your imagination run wild!  Please share your pics of completed projects on my Facebook page :)

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Van the Cat *crochet pattern

Van the Cat
Van the Cat is dear to my heart and a labor of love.  My kittles are always watching me work.  As I sat around trying to decide on my next pattern I looked at Mr Bigglesworth and thought a cat would be nice!
***Pattern is untested as I type, if you find any errors I would greatly appreciate a heads up!***
Mr Bigglesworth (Bigs) and Van the Cat

My sweet kittles Alice was started awake by the flash :3



Materials:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight fabric)
0 steel hook (for nose)
ww yarn in your choice of colors (I used Red Heart Super Saver in White, red & black )
Small amt of black (for mouth)
pink embroidery floss for nose
24mm safety eyes  (You can always embroider this!)
20mm doll joints (you can use safety eyes, or sew in place!)
tapestry needle (to attach limbs etc)
fiberfill


Abbreviations:

MR: magic ring
sl: slip
st: stitch
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
sc3tog: single crochet 3 stitches together
hdc: half double crochet
5 dc bobble: insert hook into st draw up a loop, pull through 2 loops, repeat 4 more times in same st, yo draw through all loops on hook
f.o.: finish off
BPSC: back post sc
FPSC: front post sc

Note:
I use American terminology.  Be sure to read through the pattern before you begin.  If the pattern reads, "sc, 2sc, sc2tog" it would be read as "single crochet, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet the next 2 stitches together".   Unless a specific repeat amount is written (ex: x3) you will repeat instructions given until end of each round. I like to use "invisible decreases"- use FLO, it helps the fabric lie smoother.  Stuff your project as you progress.  Unless noted otherwise Van the Cat is worked in amigurumi style in the round without joining. Make sure you mark your rounds, a scrap piece of contrasting yarn works great!
 Any Van the Cat's you make from my pattern are yours to do with as you please.  I ask that you please not distribute or represent my pattern as your own.  If you feel like sharing, please direct people to my blog :)  I like visitors!

Arms: x2

using F hook & color of your choice, change colors whenever you want, make your Van the Cat to your liking!  Stuff firmly as you work, I stuff a little lighter towards top of arm.

1: Mr 6 (6)

2: 2sc (12)

3: sc, 2sc (18)

4: sc2, 2sc (24)

5-7: sc (24)

8: sc12, 5dc bobble, sc11 (24)

9: sc (24)

10: sc2, sc2tog (18)

11: sc, sc2tog (12)

12-14: sc (12)

15: sc3, 2sc (15)

16-18: sc (15)

19: sc4, 2sc (18)

20-22: sc (18)

23: sc8, 2sc (20)

24-28: sc (20)

29: sc3, sc2tog (16)

30: sc (16) I placed the joint between rows 29/30 of arms they will attach to body between rows 65/66

31: sc2, sc2tog (12)

32: sc, sc2tog (8) f.o. leave a long tail, you may find you can't manipulate the joints well if you finish last round, if this is the case leave a a small amt of yarn extra and f.o. at round 31, after you have joint in place finish crochet rnd 32 :) leave open end until later on


Feet: x 2

Toes: make 3 per foot do NOT f.o. 3rd toe

1: Mr 6 (6)

2: sc, 2sc (9)

3: sc (9) f.o. toes 1 & 2

Begin foot/leg- see photos below if you need help with rnd 4


4: sc4, sk last 5 sts, sc4 in next toe, sk last 5 sts, sc9 in last toe, (I pick up a loop in 1st sc space of this toe as if doing a decrease to avoid sewing areas between toes closed) sc5 in next toe, (pick up loop in 1st sc space of the toe) sc 5 to marker. (27) you will have created a single round from 3 toes

5-6: sc (27)

7: *sc6, sc2tog* x3, sc3 (24)

8-9: sc (24) be sure to stuff as you work!

10: sc4, sc2tog (20)

11-13: sc (20)

14: sc3, sc2tog (16)

15-16: sc (16)

17: sc8, BPSC 8 (16)

18: FPSC 8, sc 8 (16)

19: sc9, hdc6, sc (16)

20-21: sc (16)

22: sc3, 2sc (20)

23-24: sc (20)

25: sc4, 2sc (24)

26-30: sc (24)

31: sc5, 2sc (28)

32-34: sc (28)  f.o. leg one continue with leg 2

Look at your cat feet, add a stitch or two to keep feet flat or you can leave loose, they will naturally bend a bit on their own.  Find the sides of the legs and line up the inner thigh center stitches, a count of mine may not help you as tension can have us in different places.  I place a piece of yarn as a marker to indicate these sts.

35: sc to first marker, sk remaining sts of this leg and begin to crochet in first leg, sc28, (pick up a loop in 1st st of this leg and continue to next leg) sc in sk sts of leg 2 to marker. (56)

36: sc6, sc2 (64)

37: sc (64)

38: sc7, 2sc (72)

39-49: sc (72)

50: sc7, sc2tog (64)  make sure you're stuffing firmly!

51-55: sc (64)

56; sc6, sc2tog (56)

57-58: sc (56)

59: sc5, sc2tog (48)

60-61: sc (48)

62: sc4, sc2tog (38)

63-64: sc (38)

65: sc3, sc2tog (30) joint will go between 65/66

66-69: sc (30)

70: sc3, sc2tog (25)

71: sc (25)

72: sc6, sc2tog, sc17 (24)

73-74: sc (24)

75: sc, 2sc (36)

76: sc5, 2sc (42)

Find side of head, place a marker in the center side sts (3 markers- inc/dec markers x2 and rnd marker)

77: sc to st before first marker, 2sc x3 (place marker in first sc of 1st 2sc, you will use this marker to indicate where increases and decreases are-continue to mark rounds!) sc to st before next marker, (move marker as with first increase) 2sc x3, sc to beginning of round (rnd marker)  (48)

78: sc (48)

79: sc to fist inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (54)

80: sc (54)

81: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc2 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc2, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (60)

82: sc (60)

83: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc3 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc3, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (66)

84: sc (66)

85: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc4 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc4, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (72)

86: sc (72)

87: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc5 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc5, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (78)

88-90: sc (78)

91: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc5 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc5, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (72)

92: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc4 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc4, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (66)

93: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc3 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc3, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (60)

94:sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc2 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc2, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (54) 

95: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (48)

96: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (42)

97-98: sc (42)

99: sc5, sc2tog (36) Place eyes now if using safety eyes between rnds 92/93 (I think) look for best spot!

100: sc4, sc2tog (30) keep stuffing!  Stuff the neck firmly to help hold shape

101: sc3, sc2tog (24)

102: sc2tog (12)

103: sc, sk 1 st (6) f.o.

Nose: with embroidery thread and size 0 steel hook

ch6
1: in 2nd ch from hook sc and in the next 4 ch (5) ch1 turn

2: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog (3) ch1 turn

3: sc3tog, ch1 f.o. leaving a tail to attach nose to face

Tail

with F hook and color of choice  stuff tail lightly as you progress

1: Mr4 (4)

2: 2sc (8)

3-42: sc (8) f.o. leaving a long tail for attaching to body  

Ears x2

with F hook and color choice Do NOT stuff

1: MR 4 (4)

2: 2sc (8)

3: sc (8)

4: 2sc, sc (12)

5: sc (12)

6: 2sc, sc2 (16)

7: sc (16)

8: 2sc, sc3 (20)

9: sc (20)

10: 2sc, sc4 (24)

11: sc (24) f.o. leaving a long tail for attaching ears to head


Collar

with F hook in color choice

ch35

1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (34) f.o. leaving a tail to sew collar to cat


Finishing


Cut 12 pieces of yarn approximately 6 inches long for hair tufts in ears and cheeks (3 per location) I used my tapestry needle to separate the yarn and trimmed to desired length after on Van.  I used a latch hook style knot to attach the hair.  

Sew tail to back of cat in location you like best.  

Attach the collar around neck of Van with a a few stitches.  

Sew smile on Van using black embroidery floss or yarn.  

Go nuts, give him whiskers or a mustache or anything you like!

Rnd 4 photo help:

Rnd 4: sc4

Rnd 4: sc 4 in next toe


Rnd 4: sc 9 in last toe

Rnd 4: pick a loop in first sc space

Rnd 4: continue to sc 5 in next toe 

Rnd 4: completed 1st st on 2nd toe

The black yarn in my "marker".  I place it before the first st of rnd 2 and carry back and forth as I complete each rnd, an easy way to quickly count rnds!

End of rnd 7


As I said above this pattern was written as I made Van and may have errors, if you need help or find an error please contact me I will be glad to help and fix any problems!

As always Happy Hooking!

Change colors whenever you like or not at all!

Thanks for visiting!




Monday, April 20, 2015

Mice, Meece, Mouse : Mice for my Kittles crochet pattern

I love my kittles... like, a lot.  They bring me so much happiness <3  Yes, I actually call my cats Kittles and they know I'm talking to them.

My cats have loved playing with these mice since they were kittens so I figured sharing is caring!

This pattern is something I have been whipping up for years and I finally decided to write it down :)

For your kittle's enjoyment I happily present:

Mice for my Kittles





These mice were made by changing colors throughout

Materials

E hook ( whatever you need to keep the stuffing inside ;)
ww yarn in main color (mc) and contrasting color (cc)I used Red Heart Super Saver & With Love acrylic yarns
fiberfill 
yarn needle to weave in ends

I don't add catnip to the stuffing, but my cats do enjoy catnip so I squish up some catnip and rub on the outside of their mice ;) you can add or not :)

Abbreviations

MR : magic ring
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (decrease)
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
FLO: front loop only (loop closest to you)
BLO: back loop only (loop furthest from you)
f.o.: finish off

Notes:
All terms American. If pattern reads, " 2sc, sc2, sc2tog" it is implied this is repeated unless noted otherwise and read as, " 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in the next 2 stitches, single crochet 2 stitches together over the next two stitches" (creating a decrease).  The mice are worked in the round without joining amigurumi style. Read pattern before beginning work.  Be sure to mark your rounds; I use a scrap piece of yarn. 
You may do whatever you wish with your finished mice: sell them, give them to your cats, make them as toys for children, train them to play rock and roll and tour the country, whatever you like, but I ask that you do not distribute my pattern in any form.  If you want to share my pattern or give credit for pattern (always appreciated but never required) please refer your friends to my blog :)  If you have any questions at all please contact me via email and I will gladly help you!


Directions

beginning at tail with mc

1; mr, sc, ch16, sl st in 2nd chain hook and down remaining ch sts, sc5 in ring (6)

2: *Be mindful of the tail, you need to keep it outside!  2sc (12)

3: 2sc, sc (18)
4: 2sc, sc2 (24)

5-10: sc (24)

11: sc2, sc2tog (18)

12: sc (18)

13: sc, drop mc, FLO: attach cc in next st, ch2, dc, tr, dc ch 2, sl st into same stitch, sl st in next 3 sts, ch2, dc, tr, dc, ch2, sl st into same stitch f.o. cc *tip hide cc tails as you progress with mc . Pick up mc: sc4 BLO; in both loops: sc to marker (18)  Ears made!! Start stuffing!


14: sc, sc2tog (12)

15: sc (12)

16: sc, sc2tog (8)

17: sc2, sc2tog (6) f.o. finish stuffing and run yarn end in and out of stitches on end to cinch nose closed, weave in end to secure.  

Finishing:

You can add eyes or whiskers or anything you want!


You can get very creative with these mice and change colors or use variegated yarns, the only limit is your imagination!


I hope you enjoyed making some Mice for your Kittle! If you want to share any of your projects from my patterns I would love to see them!  If you want to brag to everyone please post on my Facebook page!


~Anna

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Pattern testers needed!!!

I have three new patterns that need to be checked!

You get the pattern sent via email from me, you make the project of your choosing (or all three is fine too!) and you give me feedback.  Check for errors etc Do I need a photo somewhere to explain more? Is the count wrong? Anything at all :)

Available to test now:


Melody the Mermaid


Materials needed for Melody:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn't show through)
#7 steel crochet hook (for fishnet)
tapestry/yarn needle (weaving, attaching, embroidering etc)
9mm safety eyes (you can embroider)
3/16" wooden dowel to provide neck support (you can use chopsticks)
fiberfill
ww acrylic yarn in color choices for tail, skin, hair, starfish
#5 crochet thread for fishnet
a healthy imagination!

Noko the Troll


 Materials needed for Noko:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn't show through)
H hook (short pants)
K hook (vest)
1 1/4 " shank style toggle button (vest)
tapestry/yarn needle (weaving, attaching, embroidering etc)
9mm safety eyes (you can embroider)
3/16" wooden dowel to provide neck support (you can use chopsticks)
fiberfill
ww acrylic yarn in color choices for skin, short pants
#6 super bulky yarn of choice (vest)
Fun Fur in color for hair
a healthy imagination!

Garden Fae


Materials needed for Garden Fae:

E hook (wings)
F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn't show through)
tapestry/yarn needle (weaving, attaching, embroidering etc)
6mm safety eyes (you can embroider)
3/16" wooden dowel to provide neck support (you can use chopsticks)
fiberfill
ww acrylic yarn in color choices for skin
sport weight yarn in color choice (dress) (instructions provided for ww as well)
Fun Fur in color for hair  (or use acrylic yarn- your imagination is your only limit!)
Floral stem wire (wings, arms)
a healthy imagination!



So if you are interested in trying a Mommy Made Crochet pattern for free before anyone can purchase it... Email me!


Thank you all for stopping by!

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Meet Hob


Hob Goblin Wilson is a special treat just for me!  I had a few dollars to spend on myself and I knew exactly what I wanted... an April Draven (Folts) pattern!

I love her patterns and have made many of her free patterns available on her blog so I wanted to show a little love for her work and buy her Goblin pattern .  

I made a few changes as I tend to do...
I didn't add the toe curls; after making them and slipping them on my husband said he preferred him without them.  I added pvc pellets in a nylon (cheap 'egg' knee highs work great and you can usually tie and cut for multiple projects) with a total weight of 47 grams per nylon, I then used some patience and tucked those pellets firmly into Hob's feet so he could stand unassisted. I usually use the cheapest acrylic yarn but I had some nice yarn left over from a hat I made for my husband and the colors looked perfect for Hob.  I added a wooden dowel in his neck to be sure we never have a slumping Hob.   The hands in the pattern wouldn't suit my needs so I used the hand pattern I made for my Frog Brothers and added a finger.  Then to test my limits I wired the hands and arms...he can now "grasp" things :)

I think that is all I changed. And now I will explain why..

Hob is a Goblin.  He is now H.G. Wilson

My husband and I love photography.  Especially nature and wildlife, a great way to let go.  We spend many hours in our beautiful Florida State Parks and I sometimes wish I would see a magical little creature because when you are deep in nature it feels magical.

Sooo while out about a week ago I told my husband of this great plan:

Bring a goblin to the parks and document his adventures...to my surprise he was just as excited as me!

So Hob will be coming along with us now!  I will be using #AdventuresofHob on Instagram and facebook :)
Hob loves shiny things...weakness of the goblins ;)

Side view with his satchel

Back view

top of head


I hope we have many adventures together!


By the way...He reminds me of a combination of Marty Feldman and Hoggle (Labyrinth)

Friday, February 6, 2015

Red Hot Chili Pupper! *small dog sweater*


Chili Pepper Miller


Meet Chili.  He is a young adopted Chihuahua son of friends Jim & Michelle Miller of J & M Herbs.   Michelle asked for a sweater for this handsome young fella and nothing I found sufficed.  I found some super patterns but I wanted something that shouted "Chili Pepper Miller" so I am pleased to present the Red Hot Chili Pupper small dog sweater!

I know this only about his size;  neck to tail 12", neck to privates 5", "width" (I assumed girth of chest) 9". 
Requests of no arm holes as they can be difficult and stressful, buttons as opposed to pullover and to be mindful of young Chili's ability to sprinkle his clothing if too close to waterworks.

(I do not have a pic of Chili in his sweater but I will add as soon as I receive one along with any alterations that may be necessary.)

Completed Red Hot Chili Pupper Sweater

Unstretched lengths:

neck band: 9" (7/ 7.5/ 8" at button holes from center of button)
Chili body (red): 12"
girth strap 12" (10/10.5/11" at buttonholes from center of button)
space between neck & girth strap 2"
neckband width: 1.5"
total length 13.5"

Supplies:
I used a small amount of Red Heart with Love yarns (I forgot the names, bright red and jade-ish) *Update: colors are Holly Berry & Jadeite*
H hook
tapestry needle
2   7/8" buttons
a sharper needle to attach buttons


Notes: Red is MC, green is CC.  If pattern reads "sc2, 14sc, sc2tog" it is read as  " two single crochet in the next stitch, single crochet in the next 14 stitches, single crochet 2 stitches together"    Parentheses with a number at end of row indicates st count, ex: (6).  BLO = back loop only



Neck Band

With CC
Ch7

1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, Ch 1 turn (at end of every row unless stated otherwise here and throughout) (6)

2: sc (6)

3: sc2, ch2, sk 2 sts, sc2   (creating button holes)

4: sc2, 2sc in ch sp, sc2    (6)

5-10: repeat rows 2-4 twice

11: sc  (6)

12-36: sc in BLO  ch 1 and turn to work down the side


Body

1: sc16 change to MC in last st  *you should be 8 "bumps/ridges" across with 4 ridges remaining on neck band* (16)

2: hdc across (16)

3: 2hdc, hdc14, 2hdc (18)

4: hdc (18)

5: 2hdc, hdc16, 2hdc (20)

6: 2hdc, hd18, 2hdc (22)

7-17: hdc (22)

18: hdc2tog, hdc20 (21)

19: hdc2tog, hdc17, hdc2tog (19)

20: hdc2tog, hdc17 (18)

21: hdc2tog, hdc14, hdc2tog (16)

22: hdc 2tog, hdc14 (15)

23: hdc2tog, hdc11, hdc2tog (13)

24: hdc2tog, hdc9, hdc2tog (11)

25: hdc2tog, hdc7, hdc2tog (9)

26: hdc2tog, hdc5, hdc2tog (7)

27: hdc2tog, hdc3, hdc2tog (5)

28: hdc2tog, hdc3  (4)

29: hdc2, hdc2tog (3)

30: hdc (3)

31: hdc, hdc2tog (2)

32: hdc (2)

33: hdc2tog f.o.

Flush side with buttons

Attach CC along flush side and...

Sc6, change to MC in 6th st, sc to end of pepper: ch4, sl st in 2nd ch, sc in 3rd, hdc in 4th ch from hook.  Continue to sc down other side of pepper to neck band, put on sc in CC of neck band do NOT f.o.



Turn do not chain

Girth strap:

1: sl st 7, sc6  (6)

2-8: hdc BLO (6)

9: sc2, ch2, sk 2 sts, sc2  (creating button holes)

10: sc2, 2sc in ch sp, sc2 (6)

11: sc (6)

12-17: repeat rows 9-12 twice f.o.

Finishing:

Weave in ends of yarn.  Attach button on body of Chili Pupper opposite Girth Strap and a button on collar opposite button holes.


I hope you enjoy making this Red Hot Chili Pupper sweater as much as I did!  Sell as many as you like, you made it!  But please do not sell or distribute my pattern as your own or for profit.  Any links back would be greatly appreciated as well!  If you want to share any of your projects from my patterns I would love to see them!  If you want to brag to everyone please post on my Facebook page!


Happy Hooking!

Friday, October 24, 2014

Super Bulky Hat (Crochet pattern)

My super awesome husband bought me a skein of Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Monarch because he knows I love orange and I like to use different yarns from time to time.  The skein has 5oz (87yards) and is size 6 super bulky.
After searching for a nice pattern for a super bulky yarn skull cap and I came up wanting more.  So here is my contribution for those like me- a small amount of yarn and a need for the perfect skull cap!



Materials:
Skein of super bulky (size 6 yarn)
N hook
Tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Abbreviations:
MR : magic ring
dc : double crochet
ch : chain
FPDC :front post double crochet
BPDC : back post double crochet
sl st : slip stitch

Notes:
*******  Ch 2 does not count as a st at any point in the pattern. "2dc, dc2" reads as "2 double crochet in next stitch, double crochet in next 2 sts"*******
 All crochet terms American.  You may use your completed hats any way you wish; you can sell them or keep them or give them away, I only ask that you please do not publish this pattern in any way as your own.   A link back to this blog would also be appreciated :) 

1: MR 8dc, join with sl st, ch2 (8)
2: 2dc around, join with sl st, ch2  (16)
3: *2dc, dc*  join with sl st, ch2  (24)
4: *2dc, dc2*  join with sl st, ch2  (32)
5: *2dc, dc3*  join with sl st, ch2  (40)
6: dc around,  join with sl st, ch2  (40)
7: *2dc, dc19*  join with sl st, ch2  (42)
8-9: dc around,  join with sl st, ch2  (42)
10:  *FPDC, BPDC*  join with sl st, ch2  (42)
11: *FPDC, BPDC*  join with sl st, f.o. (42)

Weave in ends and enjoy!

I have about a 18" of my skein left! 

I hope you enjoy making this Super Bulky Hat!  If you want to share any of your projects from my patterns I would love to see them!  If you want to brag to everyone please post on my Facebook page!


Happy Hooking!
~Anna




Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Market Season, dolls, and a giant frog!

Market season is finally here and that is why I have been "too busy" to blog lol

A lot of new items are ready for my stall and a couple new patterns are almost done!

Christmas is also quickly approaching and orders are already beginning to trickle in for all kinds of different things!  From fingerless mitts to Jack Sparrow!

Swashbuckling Jack Sparrow

Jack's Pirate Boots
 
 
Jack was a challenge brought by a friend who needed a Jack Sparrow for a son's birthday ASAP!  Jack was so much fun but I can assure you the hair was tedious!  Each dreadlock was crocheted a little different length to help keep his dread pirate look as real as possible ;)
 
 
I found an absolutely amazing book and I have been having lots of fun with it!  If you love to make dolls you cannot pass up on AmiguruME by Allison Hoffman !  Here are a few dolls I created by using her book (of course these designs are not all in the book...use your imagination!) 
10th Doctor Who (David Tennant)

Sonic time!

11th Doctor Who (Matt Smith)

Fez's & Bowtie's are cool!

Look out! Weeping Angel! Don't Blink! (Weeping Angel is my design)

Sherlock (BBC Benedict Cumberbatch)
I am SHERLOCKED!

Back of Sherlock

Morticia Addams

Wednesday Addams

Wednesday is not thrilled

Pugsley Addams

Pugsley always seems happy
Gomez Addams

Gomez (John Astin was my influence)

And now for something completely different.....

I am currently preparing the pattern for this big guy and it will soon be in my Etsy Shop !   But the kids need to give the pattern a name first...any suggestions?



Me and  the giant frog!

And what do you think about eyebrows on him? ye/nay?

Ok everyone I am back to the pattern checking business!  Be sure to check out Allison Hoffman's book!  I love it!

Happy Hooking!

 ~ Anna