Pacific Waves Market Bag

Still burning through my marmie's yarn stash! Here is a pattern using size 10 cotton crochet thread to create a handy little bag that can collapse into itself for easy storage.



Materials

* #10 cotton thread. I used Aunt Lydia's classic 10 in Fudge Brown (color 1) & Delft (color 2)
* E Hook
* button (optional)

Abbreviations

* ch : chain
* sl st : slip stitch
* beg : beginning
* sc : single crochet
* dc : double crochet
* hdc : half double crochet
* tr : treble
* y.o. : yarn over
* f.o. : finish off
* false sc2tog: insert hook into same st pull up a loop, insert hook into next st pull up a loop, y.o. draw through all three loops on hook

Notes


All terms American.   If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  As with any pattern, be sure to read through once before beginning, and don't forget to mark your rounds! (I use a bit of contrasting yarn) This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson 2016.



You may do whatever you like with your completed Pacific Waves Market Bag, you can sell them, shop with them or even give it as a gift!  I only ask that you please not claim this pattern as your own, I worked hard to design my Pacific Waves Market Bag :) 


Starting at base with color 1

Ch5 join to make a loop

1: Ch3 counts as dc here and throughout,  DC12 around join (13)
2: ch3, DC in same st, 2dc in remaining 12 DC, join (26)
3: ch3, DC in same st, dc, * 2dc, dc * , join (39)
4: ch3, DC in same st, dc2, * 2dc, dc2 * , join (52)
5: ch3, DC in same st,  dc3, * 2dc, dc3 * , join (65)
6: ch3, DC in same st,  dc4, * 2dc, dc4 * , join (78)
7: ch3, DC in same st,  dc5, * 2dc, dc5 * , join (91)
8: ch3, DC in same st,  dc6, * 2dc, dc6 * , join (104)
9: ch3, DC in same st,  dc7, * 2dc, dc7 * , join (117)
10: ch3, DC in same st,  dc8, * 2dc, dc8 * , join (130) f.o. weave in ends if using 2nd color
11: Attach new color with a sc, *ch8, sk 4 sts, sc*  for last ch: ch3, tr to beg sc
12: *ch8, SC in next ch loop* for last ch loop ch3, tr to beg sc
13-20: rpt 12 -at end of 20 ch8 attach to beg with sl st
21: ch1, *sc5 in next ch loop* joint with a sl st change to 1st color (130)
22: ch 1, *sc, hdc, dc2, tr2, dc2, hdc, sc* join with a sl st to beg change to color 1 (130)
23: ch sc, join to beg with a sl st (130)
24: ch 1, sc, false 2c2tog x 14, ch 40, sl st to beg (55)
25: ch 1, sc15, sc40 over ch, sl st to beg (55)
26: ch 1, false sc2tog around sl st to beg (55)
27: same as 26, f.o. weave in ends (55)

Handle 2
Find placement of handle equidistant from 1st handle

1: rpt 24
2: rpt 25
3: rpt 26
4: rpt 27

*Optional drawstring for collapsing bag

Ch necessary amount of chs to go around base of bag without restricting size. Weave chain in and out through first round of netting. Attach a button on the end if you and your bag is complete!

Star Scrubby Washcloth/Dishcloth crochet pattern

I finally got all the orders on my Etsy board cleared last night and came up with a new design...pretty basic - think granny square-ish, but I think they turned out cute!

Star Scrubby

Materials

I hook

cotton ww yarn in colors of choice I used Peaches & Creme & Crafters Secret cotton

Red Heart Scrubby in your choice of colors

tapestry needle

scissors

Abbreviations

mr: maging ring

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

f.o.: finish off

sk: skip

mc: main color

cc: contrast color

* : repeat directions between * for times (x) indicated

Note:

Unless noted otherwise: ch 1 at end of each row does not count as stitch.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  

This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Star Scrubby washcloths/dishcloths: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.


Directions:

Version 1:  Grey cotton/Orange Scrubby

1: begin with cotton: mr, ch3, 2dc, ch3 *3dc, ch3, 3dc* x4 join with a sl st to top of beginning ch3. tighten mr. (10 3dc, 5 ch sp) turn

2: sl st in 3ch sp, ch3 2dc ch3 3dc in ch sp, *3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch sp* x4, join with a sl st to top of 1st 3ch - do NOT turn work again

3: sl st, ch3, dc, 3dc ch3 3dc in ch sp (point of star) dc2, sk 2 sts *dc2, 3dc ch3 3dc in ch sp, dc2 sk2 sts* x4 join with a sl st to top 1st ch 3.

4: sl st, ch3, dc3, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc4 sk 2 sts, *dc4, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc4, sk 2 sts* x4 join with a sl st to top of 1st ch3.

5: sl st- CHANGE to Scrubby yarn, ch3 dc5, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc6, sk 2sts *dc6, 3dc ch3 3dc in point, dc6 sk 2 sts* x4 join with a sl st to top of 1st 3ch- CHANGE to cotton yarn

6: sl st, ch1, sc8, 7sc in point, sc8, sk 2 sts *sc8. 7sc in point, sc8 sk 2 sts* x4 join with a sl st, f.o. weave in ends

Version 2 :

Work the same as version 1 except:

Begin with Scrubby yarn: start with a ch4 joined with a sl st instead of mr.  Use Scrubby yarn for rnds 1 & 2.  CHANGE to cotton for rnds 3-6

I hope you enjoyed making your Star Scrubby!

Share pictures of your creations using #MommyMadeCrochet & MMCStarScrubby on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, I love seeing your work!

You can also share your work on my Facebook page!

Newborn Wizard Hat crochet pattern - Inspired by Harry Potter

As I made this hat I could hear "You're a Wizard Harry" in my head lol

Our family enjoyed reading the Harry Potter Books and watching the movies together, so it was a natural progression to welcome my grandson Jayce with his own 1st year wizard hat <3

Hagrid whispering: You're a wizard Jayce!

Materials:

Black ww yarn - I used Red Heart Super Saver

G hook

large eye needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations:

Mr: magic ring

sc: singlecrochet

hdc: half double crochet

f.o.: finish off

Notes:

If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.
This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Wizard hats: sell them at farmer's markets, use them, gift them, fly on your Nimbus 2000 with them or go to a Quidditch game with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.

Directions:

1: mr 4hdc (4)

2: 2hdc, hdc (6)

3: 2hdc, hdc (9)

4: 2hdc, hdc2 (12)

5: 2hdc, hdc3 (15)

6: 2hdc, hdc 4 (18)

7: 2hdc, hdc5 (21)

8: 2hdc, hdc6 (24)

9: 2hdc, hdc7 (27)

10: 2hdc, hdc8 (30)

11: 2hdc, hdc9 (33)

12:  2hdc, hdc10 (36)

13:  2hdc, hdc11 (39)

14: 2hdc, hdc12 (42)

15: 2hdc, hdc13 (45)

16: 2hdc, hdc14 (48)

17: 2hdc, hdc15 (51)

18: 2hdc, hdc16 (54)

19: sc (54) f.o. weave in ends

Crochet Cotton Moccasin Shoes (Adult size)

After playing around a bit  I think I have the answer to a pattern for adult sizes :)  Kids size available here

I have not added optional fringe at this point 

Materials

*I hook
*Cotton Yarn- I used Peaches & Cream (medium weight size 4)

*Cheap Flip Flops- I got flip flops for $0.98 a pair at Wal-Mart (these are one size larger than my shoe size, you could probably buy the correct size for a snug fit -I don't want tight shoes) 

*Puffy Paint - I use this to fill hole on sole

*Sharp scissors (to cut flip flops & jute)

*optional- drill with a small bit to put holes in sole (this can be accomplished with a needle as well, but I felt it was a little less labor intensive to pre-drill holes)

*large eye needle to sew jute to sole

*Twisted Jute Twine (see pic!)

*something to measure with & a Sharpie- to mark holes

This is the Jute I used

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

mirror sc: a style of crochet that gives row work the appearance of rounds Mirror sc video (you can use regular sc if you prefer or you can learn this great stitch!)

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

BLO: crochet in back loop only

Rsc: reverse single crochet reverse sc video

Third Loop: you will sew the toe in place through these loops third loop

Hdc: half double crochet

Hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Hdc3tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease 2 sts)

Dc:  double crochet

Tr: treble crochet

Tr2tog: treble crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

Note: 

Unless noted otherwise: ch at end of each row and join rounds with a sl st.  If pattern reads "sc, sc2tog, 2sc" it would be read as, " single crochet, single crochet 2 stitches together, 2 single crochet in the next stitch", directions are to be repeated to end of row/round unless otherwise noted.  

This is an original design by me, Anna Wilson, and I share it freely with all you crafty crocheters!  You may do whatever you like with your finished Moccasins: sell them at farmer's markets, wear them, gift them, fly to the moon with them or take over the world with them!! But I ask that you not reproduce/sell this pattern.  

Directions:

Begin by preparing flip flops, see How to make flip flop soles

Because all the st counts will be different based on size we will mark our soles to indicate toe/heel areas.

My toe marker is 3 sts toward toe from back straps and my heel marker is 1 st away from straps-4 spaces between.  place your foot over the sole, does this line up for you?  If you want to move your markers now is the time to get the best fit for your feet.  Think "sock heel" for heel area.

We will be crocheting over the knot, it won't be missed :)

Begin crochet:

Toe: make 2 

ch 11 (is this too long/short for the toe end? Change this by inc or dec begin ch)

1: sc in2nd ch from hook across, ch1 turn (at end of every row) (10) < your number may be different

2: mirror sc, ch1 turn (10)

3: increase row- 2sc, sc8, 2sc, ch1 turn (12) 

4: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

5:  optional increase row- (I did not need to increase this row for size 9/10 women's) if you need to increase increase 2 in first and last sts. if no increase necessary: sc,ch1 turn (12)

Keep the width of your "toe" within the jute boundaries (toe touches outer edge of jute ch at arch)

6: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

7: sc, ch1 turn (12)

8: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12)

* repeat rows 7 & 8 until you are near the toe markers in length ending with a row 7 (about 1 st away) (I made a color change in the last row 7 I made- row 19 for me I left a long tail of the variegated to stitch to shoe later)

next row: mirror sc, ch1 turn (12) (this row or next should be even with your toe markers)

next row: BLO sc, ch 1 do not turn (12) 

last row: rsc across f.o. weave in ends.

Side upper:

begin crochet in inner sole always

1: 2hdc in each ch around (go through both loops of jute, hide ends of knot as you work), join with a sl st, ch 1

2: (I changed color, you don't need to) sc around shoe, at center of heel sc2tog x2, continue to sc to end, join with a sl st, ch1 (I changed color back-this is optional)

3: sc to heel first heel marker, hdc2tog, hdc to center 4 sts of heel-  hdc2tog x2  in center 4 sts of heel, hdc to 2 sts before last heel marker, hdc2tog (finishing st in marked st), sc after heel marker to end of round, join with a sl st, ch1

4: *between heel sts work: hdc3tog, hdc, dc to center 10 sts of heel, tr2tog x5, dc to last 3 sts of heel hdc3tog, 

*between heel and toe markers: sc to 2 sts before toe marker (when shoe toe up) sc2tog;  when working towards heel from toe the 1st 2 sts of sc are sc2tog (2 decreases) 

*between toe markers: hdc to approx 6 sts before toe hole: sc to approx 6 sts after toe hole on opposite side, hdc to next toe marker

at end of row join with a sl st and ch1  pull up a long loop- time to attach toe

Line up the BLO row with the toe markers and pin in place

Attach toe by stitching around shoe using the 3rd loop of row 4 

After you toe is sewn in place pick up your loop and continue with crochet

5: *between heel markers:hdc2tog, hdc to center 6 sts- hdc2tog x3, hdc to last 2 sts between heel markers- hdc2tog

*toe from heel markers sc to sts before toe marker, sc2tog, sc to next tow marker, sc2tog, sc to heel marker.

f.o. weave in ends.  Cut some fringe and attach to skipped front loops of blo row of toe :)

Crochet under both loops of jute ch!

Let your imagination run wild!  Please share your pics of completed projects on my Facebook page :)

Adult Moccasin Sneak Peak

I've been working on getting a pattern for adult sizes and I think I finally got it!

***PATTERN Coming soon***

Van the Cat *crochet pattern

Van the Cat

Van the Cat is dear to my heart and a labor of love.  My kittles are always watching me work.  As I sat around trying to decide on my next pattern I looked at Mr Bigglesworth and thought a cat would be nice!
***Pattern is untested as I type, if you find any errors I would greatly appreciate a heads up!***

Mr Bigglesworth (Bigs) and Van the Cat

My sweet kittles Alice was started awake by the flash :3

Materials:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight fabric)
0 steel hook (for nose)
ww yarn in your choice of colors (I used Red Heart Super Saver in White, red & black )
Small amt of black (for mouth)
pink embroidery floss for nose
24mm safety eyes  (You can always embroider this!)
20mm doll joints (you can use safety eyes, or sew in place!)
tapestry needle (to attach limbs etc)
fiberfill


Abbreviations:

MR: magic ring
sl: slip
st: stitch
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
sc3tog: single crochet 3 stitches together
hdc: half double crochet
5 dc bobble: insert hook into st draw up a loop, pull through 2 loops, repeat 4 more times in same st, yo draw through all loops on hook
f.o.: finish off
BPSC: back post sc
FPSC: front post sc

Note:
I use American terminology.  Be sure to read through the pattern before you begin.  If the pattern reads, "sc, 2sc, sc2tog" it would be read as "single crochet, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet the next 2 stitches together".   Unless a specific repeat amount is written (ex: x3) you will repeat instructions given until end of each round. I like to use "invisible decreases"- use FLO, it helps the fabric lie smoother.  Stuff your project as you progress.  Unless noted otherwise Van the Cat is worked in amigurumi style in the round without joining. Make sure you mark your rounds, a scrap piece of contrasting yarn works great!
 Any Van the Cat's you make from my pattern are yours to do with as you please.  I ask that you please not distribute or represent my pattern as your own.  If you feel like sharing, please direct people to my blog :)  I like visitors!

Arms: x2

using F hook & color of your choice, change colors whenever you want, make your Van the Cat to your liking!  Stuff firmly as you work, I stuff a little lighter towards top of arm.

1: Mr 6 (6)

2: 2sc (12)

3: sc, 2sc (18)

4: sc2, 2sc (24)

5-7: sc (24)

8: sc12, 5dc bobble, sc11 (24)

9: sc (24)

10: sc2, sc2tog (18)

11: sc, sc2tog (12)

12-14: sc (12)

15: sc3, 2sc (15)

16-18: sc (15)

19: sc4, 2sc (18)

20-22: sc (18)

23: sc8, 2sc (20)

24-28: sc (20)

29: sc3, sc2tog (16)

30: sc (16) I placed the joint between rows 29/30 of arms they will attach to body between rows 65/66

31: sc2, sc2tog (12)

32: sc, sc2tog (8) f.o. leave a long tail, you may find you can't manipulate the joints well if you finish last round, if this is the case leave a a small amt of yarn extra and f.o. at round 31, after you have joint in place finish crochet rnd 32 :) leave open end until later on

Feet: x 2

Toes: make 3 per foot do NOT f.o. 3rd toe

1: Mr 6 (6)

2: sc, 2sc (9)

3: sc (9) f.o. toes 1 & 2

Begin foot/leg- see photos below if you need help with rnd 4

4: sc4, sk last 5 sts, sc4 in next toe, sk last 5 sts, sc9 in last toe, (I pick up a loop in 1st sc space of this toe as if doing a decrease to avoid sewing areas between toes closed) sc5 in next toe, (pick up loop in 1st sc space of the toe) sc 5 to marker. (27) you will have created a single round from 3 toes

5-6: sc (27)

7: *sc6, sc2tog* x3, sc3 (24)

8-9: sc (24) be sure to stuff as you work!

10: sc4, sc2tog (20)

11-13: sc (20)

14: sc3, sc2tog (16)

15-16: sc (16)

17: sc8, BPSC 8 (16)

18: FPSC 8, sc 8 (16)

19: sc9, hdc6, sc (16)

20-21: sc (16)

22: sc3, 2sc (20)

23-24: sc (20)

25: sc4, 2sc (24)

26-30: sc (24)

31: sc5, 2sc (28)

32-34: sc (28)  f.o. leg one continue with leg 2

Look at your cat feet, add a stitch or two to keep feet flat or you can leave loose, they will naturally bend a bit on their own.  Find the sides of the legs and line up the inner thigh center stitches, a count of mine may not help you as tension can have us in different places.  I place a piece of yarn as a marker to indicate these sts.

35: sc to first marker, sk remaining sts of this leg and begin to crochet in first leg, sc28, (pick up a loop in 1st st of this leg and continue to next leg) sc in sk sts of leg 2 to marker. (56)

36: sc6, sc2 (64)

37: sc (64)

38: sc7, 2sc (72)

39-49: sc (72)

50: sc7, sc2tog (64)  make sure you're stuffing firmly!

51-55: sc (64)

56; sc6, sc2tog (56)

57-58: sc (56)

59: sc5, sc2tog (48)

60-61: sc (48)

62: sc4, sc2tog (38)

63-64: sc (38)

65: sc3, sc2tog (30) joint will go between 65/66

66-69: sc (30)

70: sc3, sc2tog (25)

71: sc (25)

72: sc6, sc2tog, sc17 (24)

73-74: sc (24)

75: sc, 2sc (36)

76: sc5, 2sc (42)

Find side of head, place a marker in the center side sts (3 markers- inc/dec markers x2 and rnd marker)

77: sc to st before first marker, 2sc x3 (place marker in first sc of 1st 2sc, you will use this marker to indicate where increases and decreases are-continue to mark rounds!) sc to st before next marker, (move marker as with first increase) 2sc x3, sc to beginning of round (rnd marker)  (48)

78: sc (48)

79: sc to fist inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (54)

80: sc (54)

81: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc2 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc2, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (60)

82: sc (60)

83: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc3 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc3, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (66)

84: sc (66)

85: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc4 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc4, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (72)

86: sc (72)

87: sc to inc/dec marker: 2sc, sc5 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc5, 2sc x3, sc to rnd marker (78)

88-90: sc (78)

91: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc5 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc5, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (72)

92: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc4 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc4, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (66)

93: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc3 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc3, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (60)

94:sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc2 x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc2, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (54) 

95: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, sc x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc, sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (48)

96: sc to inc/dec marker: sc2tog, x3, sc to next inc/dec marker: sc2tog x3, sc to rnd marker (42)

97-98: sc (42)

99: sc5, sc2tog (36) Place eyes now if using safety eyes between rnds 92/93 (I think) look for best spot!

100: sc4, sc2tog (30) keep stuffing!  Stuff the neck firmly to help hold shape

101: sc3, sc2tog (24)

102: sc2tog (12)

103: sc, sk 1 st (6) f.o.

Nose: with embroidery thread and size 0 steel hook

ch6

1: in 2nd ch from hook sc and in the next 4 ch (5) ch1 turn

2: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog (3) ch1 turn

3: sc3tog, ch1 f.o. leaving a tail to attach nose to face

Tail

with F hook and color of choice  stuff tail lightly as you progress

1: Mr4 (4)

2: 2sc (8)

3-42: sc (8) f.o. leaving a long tail for attaching to body  

Ears x2

with F hook and color choice Do NOT stuff

1: MR 4 (4)

2: 2sc (8)

3: sc (8)

4: 2sc, sc (12)

5: sc (12)

6: 2sc, sc2 (16)

7: sc (16)

8: 2sc, sc3 (20)

9: sc (20)

10: 2sc, sc4 (24)

11: sc (24) f.o. leaving a long tail for attaching ears to head

Collar

with F hook in color choice

ch35

1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (34) f.o. leaving a tail to sew collar to cat

Finishing

Cut 12 pieces of yarn approximately 6 inches long for hair tufts in ears and cheeks (3 per location) I used my tapestry needle to separate the yarn and trimmed to desired length after on Van.  I used a latch hook style knot to attach the hair.  

Sew tail to back of cat in location you like best.  

Attach the collar around neck of Van with a a few stitches.  

Sew smile on Van using black embroidery floss or yarn.  

Go nuts, give him whiskers or a mustache or anything you like!

Rnd 4 photo help:

Rnd 4: sc4

Rnd 4: sc 4 in next toe

Rnd 4: sc 9 in last toe

Rnd 4: pick a loop in first sc space

Rnd 4: continue to sc 5 in next toe 

Rnd 4: completed 1st st on 2nd toe

The black yarn in my "marker".  I place it before the first st of rnd 2 and carry back and forth as I complete each rnd, an easy way to quickly count rnds!

End of rnd 7

As I said above this pattern was written as I made Van and may have errors, if you need help or find an error please contact me I will be glad to help and fix any problems!

As always Happy Hooking!

Change colors whenever you like or not at all!

Thanks for visiting!

Beginner Treasure Bags

Tomorrow is the very first meeting of a crochet group I started locally called Hooked on Crochet.  A lot of people that plan to attend are absolute beginners and I needed a pattern that I felt anyone could do on their first day of crochet.

My daughter reminded me of the treasure bags I used to make for her and her friends growing up and I think she picked the right project!

 Beginner Treasure Bag

Materials:
small amt of yarn in color choice
Hook necessary for yarn
yarn needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sk: skip
sc: single crochet
f.o. : finish off


Notes: worked in the round without connecting.  Be sure to use a scrap piece of yarn or stitch markers to keep track of your rounds.  If you want a longer bag: continue working sc rounds until desired length obtained :)


Directions:

1: ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook sc6 (6)
2: 2sc (12)
3: 2sc, sc (18)
4: 2sc, sc2 (24)
5-12: sc (24)
13: sc, ch1, sk 1 st around, join with a sl st to top of first sc. f.o. weave in ends.

Ties:

ch approx 50 (8-10") f.o. weave chain in and out of ch spaces on treasure bag and enjoy!


If you want to share any of your projects from my patterns I would love to see them!  If you want to brag to everyone please post on my Facebook page!


**This is an original pattern by Anna Wilson, please do not duplicate or distribute in any form.  Anything you make from this pattern is yours to do with as you like :)  Please refer any friends to my blog for this and other free patterns :)




                                *******UPDATE*******

Jasmine and Debby proudly showing off their Beginner Treasure Bags!

First day of crochet success!!

Mice, Meece, Mouse : Mice for my Kittles crochet pattern

I love my kittles... like, a lot.  They bring me so much happiness <3  Yes, I actually call my cats Kittles and they know I'm talking to them.

My cats have loved playing with these mice since they were kittens so I figured sharing is caring!

This pattern is something I have been whipping up for years and I finally decided to write it down :)

For your kittle's enjoyment I happily present:

Mice for my Kittles

These mice were made by changing colors throughout

Materials

E hook ( whatever you need to keep the stuffing inside ;)

ww yarn in main color (mc) and contrasting color (cc)I used Red Heart Super Saver & With Love acrylic yarns

fiberfill 

yarn needle to weave in ends

I don't add catnip to the stuffing, but my cats do enjoy catnip so I squish up some catnip and rub on the outside of their mice ;) you can add or not :)

Abbreviations

MR : magic ring

ch: chain

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (decrease)

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

FLO: front loop only (loop closest to you)

BLO: back loop only (loop furthest from you)

f.o.: finish off

Notes:

All terms American. If pattern reads, " 2sc, sc2, sc2tog" it is implied this is repeated unless noted otherwise and read as, " 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in the next 2 stitches, single crochet 2 stitches together over the next two stitches" (creating a decrease).  The mice are worked in the round without joining amigurumi style. Read pattern before beginning work.  Be sure to mark your rounds; I use a scrap piece of yarn. 

You may do whatever you wish with your finished mice: sell them, give them to your cats, make them as toys for children, train them to play rock and roll and tour the country, whatever you like, but I ask that you do not distribute my pattern in any form.  If you want to share my pattern or give credit for pattern (always appreciated but never required) please refer your friends to my blog :)  If you have any questions at all please contact me via email and I will gladly help you!

Directions

beginning at tail with mc

1; mr, sc, ch16, sl st in 2nd chain hook and down remaining ch sts, sc5 in ring (6)

2: *Be mindful of the tail, you need to keep it outside!  2sc (12)

3: 2sc, sc (18)

4: 2sc, sc2 (24)

5-10: sc (24)

11: sc2, sc2tog (18)

12: sc (18)

13: sc, drop mc, FLO: attach cc in next st, ch2, dc, tr, dc ch 2, sl st into same stitch, sl st in next 3 sts, ch2, dc, tr, dc, ch2, sl st into same stitch f.o. cc *tip hide cc tails as you progress with mc . Pick up mc: sc4 BLO; in both loops: sc to marker (18)  Ears made!! Start stuffing!

14: sc, sc2tog (12)

15: sc (12)

16: sc, sc2tog (8)

17: sc2, sc2tog (6) f.o. finish stuffing and run yarn end in and out of stitches on end to cinch nose closed, weave in end to secure.  

Finishing:

You can add eyes or whiskers or anything you want!

You can get very creative with these mice and change colors or use variegated yarns, the only limit is your imagination!

I hope you enjoyed making some Mice for your Kittle! If you want to share any of your projects from my patterns I would love to see them!  If you want to brag to everyone please post on my Facebook page!

~Anna

Pattern testers needed!!!

I have three new patterns that need to be checked!

You get the pattern sent via email from me, you make the project of your choosing (or all three is fine too!) and you give me feedback.  Check for errors etc Do I need a photo somewhere to explain more? Is the count wrong? Anything at all :)

Available to test now:

Melody the Mermaid

Materials needed for Melody:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn't show through)
#7 steel crochet hook (for fishnet)
tapestry/yarn needle (weaving, attaching, embroidering etc)
9mm safety eyes (you can embroider)
3/16" wooden dowel to provide neck support (you can use chopsticks)
fiberfill
ww acrylic yarn in color choices for tail, skin, hair, starfish
#5 crochet thread for fishnet
a healthy imagination!

Noko the Troll

 Materials needed for Noko:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn't show through)
H hook (short pants)
K hook (vest)
1 1/4 " shank style toggle button (vest)
tapestry/yarn needle (weaving, attaching, embroidering etc)
9mm safety eyes (you can embroider)
3/16" wooden dowel to provide neck support (you can use chopsticks)
fiberfill
ww acrylic yarn in color choices for skin, short pants
#6 super bulky yarn of choice (vest)
Fun Fur in color for hair
a healthy imagination!

Garden Fae

Materials needed for Garden Fae:

E hook (wings)

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn't show through)
tapestry/yarn needle (weaving, attaching, embroidering etc)
6mm safety eyes (you can embroider)
3/16" wooden dowel to provide neck support (you can use chopsticks)
fiberfill
ww acrylic yarn in color choices for skin
sport weight yarn in color choice (dress) (instructions provided for ww as well)
Fun Fur in color for hair  (or use acrylic yarn- your imagination is your only limit!)
Floral stem wire (wings, arms)
a healthy imagination!



So if you are interested in trying a Mommy Made Crochet pattern for free before anyone can purchase it... Email me!


Thank you all for stopping by!

The fat just walks away... Adipose = Fat

Whovians know what an Adipose Baby is...we all want one.  They are so darn cute!  So today  I'm giving you an opportunity to have one of your own!  Don't crochet?  Here is the listing of my ready to go Adipose Baby =)

So darn cute!

Materials:

F hook (or hook needed to obtain a tight fabric)
small amount of white ww yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Soft White)
Small amt of black (for mouth)
6mm safety eyes  (You can always embroider this with a bit of black yarn!)
tapestry needle (to attach limbs etc)
fiberfill


Abbreviations:

MR: magic ring
sl: slip
st: stitch
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
f.o.: finish off
FLO: front loop only
BLO: back loop only

Note:
I use American terminology.  Be sure to read through the pattern before you begin.  If the pattern reads, "sc, 2sc, sc2tog" it would be read as "single crochet, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet the next 2 stitches together".   I like to use "invisible decreases"- use FLO, it helps the fabric lie smoother.  Stuff your project as you progress.  Unless noted otherwise the Adipose Baby is worked in amigurumi style in the round without joining. Make sure you mark your rounds, a scrap piece of contrasting yarn works great!
 The Adipose Baby you make from my pattern is yours to do with as you please.  I ask that you please not distribute or represent my pattern as your own.  If you feel like sharing, please direct people to my blog :)  I like visitors!

Directions:

Head/Body with white

1: mr 6
2: 2sc (12)
3: sc, 2sc (18)
4: sc2, 2sc (24)
5-8: sc (24) note: I place the eyes between rows 6/7 4 sts apart from each other
9: sc11, 2sc (26)
10: sc (26)
11: sc6, 2sc, sc12, 2sc, sc6 (28)
12-16: sc (28)
17: sc5, sc2tog (24)
18: sc2, sc2tog (18)
19: sc, sc2tog (12)
20: sc2tog (6) f.o. finish stuffing and close opening; weave in tail

Arms x2:  stuff lightly and attach at a slight angle

Ch 6  sl st to form a ring, do not twist leave a long tail to attach to body

1: ch1, sc in each ch around, do not join (6)
2-3: sc (6)
4: sc5, ch3, sl st in 1st ch, sc through last stitch and stitch before ch3, be sure to keep ch 3 out (thumb created)
5: sc through both halves of round (closing opening)
6: *ch3, sl st in 1st ch, sl st in same sc, sl st next sc* x2, ch3, sl st in 1st ch, sl st in same sc, f.o. weave in end

Arm attached at an angle

Feet/Legs x2: stuff lightly

1: mr6
2: 2sc (12)
3: BLO sc (12)
4: sc, sc2tog (9)
5: *sc, sc2tog* x2, sc2 f.o. leave a long tail to attach to body

Adipose feet!

Don't forget his cute smile! (see additional pic below for alternate mouth)

I hope you enjoyed making your very own Adipose Baby!  This house is full of Doctor Who fans and the Adipose pictured has been claimed by my daughter already lol  If you want to share any of your projects from my patterns I would love to see them!  If you want to brag to everyone please post on my Facebook page!

If you are interested in testing my crochet patterns before they are available to the public at no cost to you please message me!  I need people to give me feedback and help check for errors!

Bye!

Alternate Mouth =)

Noko the Troll

I am looking for some awesome hookers to help me test my Noko the Troll pattern!

I need a proofread and any feedback you have! You will get the pattern for free just for helping me out! Message me for more info! I will be typing up the pattern over the next couple days :-) I need feedback within 2 weeks!!

****UPDATE****

Noko the Troll and Noko the Troll Pattern are available in my Etsy shop!